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Update

Posted on 15. Jan, 2010 by in News

It looks as though I will be getting outside this weekend for the first time in a while. The prospect of grabbing dry rock has me psyched! On Wednesday I spotted Daniel Woods again as he tried the Super Project in Boulder Canyon. He made a couple of very good links and refined his beta. The first three moves are very difficult and this leads to 6 or so moves of sustained climbing (with no let up) in the solid V12 range. I think he could send the next time he heads out there, and Colorado may soon have it’s second V15. Daniel tried really hard and he is in phenomenal shape right now.
For the climber looking for an interesting new destination, check out this link of bouldering in Portugal, although it is in Portugese. The email I got about this site was in English, so I imagine you could get some beta if need be.
Also, I was talking to Joe Kinder, who is in Hueco and he asked me a bouldering question that I couldn’t answer so I pose it here. What was the first V10 in Hueco? I think the candidates would be Full Service, The Woman with A Hueco in Her Head and Left Martini, although there could be something else. Additionally, who has the first ascent to Full Service? Most would say Dale Goddard but I have heard that Skip Guerin, the legendary underground beast from Boulder may have beaten him to it. Full Service is one of the most classic problems in Hueco, although it has become polished in recent years.

16 Responses to “Update”

  1. Pat

    15. Jan, 2010

    I believe Full Service may have been put up by a Frenchman, actually. I’m not sure, but whoever it was beat John Sherman to it, and named it Serves You Right. However, Full Service is the name that stuck.

  2. B3

    15. Jan, 2010

    I know that a Frenchman named Laurent Laporte, the great routesetter, has the first ascent of The Woman with a Hueco in Her Head, but I don’t know of he is the same person you are referring to and I don’t know if he did Full Service or not, but thanks for the input! He visited Hueco around that time.

  3. DrPlim

    15. Jan, 2010

    Great to see Portugal showing up on this blog! In terms of bouldering in Portugal I strongly recommend checking out the website: bouldersintra.wordpress.com
    Jamie’s link is for a place in the north of Portugal whereas this second link is in Sintra, central Portugal, near Lisbon.
    Enjoy the pictures.

  4. Eli

    15. Jan, 2010

    “When the first Hueco bouldering guide hit the stands in 1991, the biggest v-grade listed was v9. Instantly the race was on to be the first to climb v10. Climbers would stop at nothing to win this race. Case in point: the earliest ‘first v10’ claim sent to the mags was for a chieseled problem on an access-denied wall put up by a climber who had told me weeks before that a problem already published in the guide was definitely V10”- John Sherman in “To V or Not to V” an article found in his book Sherman Exposed.

    I don’t know the problem, but this article about the origins of the v grade system is really interesting. I’ll make you a copy if you want.

  5. campusman

    15. Jan, 2010

    0:18 control

  6. Andy

    15. Jan, 2010

    Photo caption in “performance rock climbing” has “Dale Goddard on his Hueco V10, Serves you right”. But Dale wrote that book, so who knows…

    the problem Sherman refers to above is a traverse in the now-closed Nuclear Arms wall near where Nobody gets out of here alive is. A 1991 issue of climbing credits Geoff Weigand with the FA, and states that it is Hueco’s first V10

  7. CB Dog

    15. Jan, 2010

    Hueco’s first V10 was climbed by Chuck Norris, who was in the area for an art show, around 1 day AD. He originally did Crimping christ on the Cross but felt it was soft so he went ahead and flashed Serves you Right, grading it original N10. It’s a well known fact that Norris and Jesus did not get along.

  8. Emmanuel

    15. Jan, 2010

    I think I remember reading in the early 90s in “Vertical” (French ‘Climbing’ equivalent) that Font Master Jacky Godoffe did the first ascent of Full Service.

  9. andy

    16. Jan, 2010

    In the book Better Bouldering by John Sherman he talks about this problem. I’ll save you from the story, he states Dale Goddard climbed it first and named it Serves you right. According to the book this is a shot to John because he asked people to stay off it so he could Fa. John Sherman took to long.

  10. CB Dog

    16. Jan, 2010

    He also mentions Blunk several times. I never got to meet Blunk.

  11. leopold

    16. Jan, 2010

    i believe Geoff Weigand put up “Brownringers” before Full Service. Don’t know if the grade stuck though.

  12. wyclimber

    16. Jan, 2010

    Sherman did the Stand start of Full Service and named it Lip Service. The rest I’ve read here seems to be true in that the low start was climbed by Dale Goddard and named Serves you Right. Perhaps the name didn’t stick because Sherman wrote the ensuing guidebook and his fragile ego wouldn’t allow that name for his coveted yet swiped problem.

    A friend of mine watched ‘some Frenchie’ get the FA of Woman With a Hueco in Her Head. He couldn’t remember the date but said it was late 80’s or early 90’s. this visiting French man climbed everything in sight and would say ‘ Deese problem ess soo eazy for me. Ha Ha, my buddy still repeats that line to this day. Cracks us all up when it is delivered at the right time. Not sure if it was the first though, just wanted to share a story.

  13. B3

    17. Jan, 2010

    @wyclimber The Frenchman you speak of is Laurent Laporte who I had the fortune of setting with this summer at the World Cup. He was a great character and an amazing climber. I was fascinated listening to his stories of the early days in Hueco with John Sherman.

  14. P Otis

    17. Jan, 2010

    Funky Ring Eye, now V9, was Hueco’s first V10 and originally a candidate for “first V10 in America”. FA Jim Belcer 1990’s

  15. P Otis

    17. Jan, 2010

    Legend has it that Guerin climbed the FA of Full Service with only his dog watching. Goddard claimed the FA soon after

  16. B3

    17. Jan, 2010

    Thank Paul!

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