Comments on: V14 in Brazil

By: Christian

Christian — Mon, 21 Jun 2010 22:38:45 +0000

“That looks very much not V14. Psyched for that guy to send his project, but, frankly, without any sort of known track record of climbing other problems, and with video showing lots of incut crimps up a nice 45 degree overhang, I’m skeptical. ”

Great perspective… André Berezovsky send 5.14 ten years ago… all the hard routes in Brazil in the last years, and some in Europe, EUA, etc…

Daniel Woods do the problem this month, and say they are a V13. Any doubts? Come to Brazil and send the boulder, them you can talk about the grade.

Cheers

By: Andrew

Andrew — Fri, 07 May 2010 23:04:03 +0000

There should be a large difference in v12 and v13? Right? A capable v12 climber could send a v12 quite quickly and take 2 days on a V13.

I’d like to come to Brazil and try your climbs any day.

Personally I want to see a Brazilian come here to the USA and dominate. If they were so inclined to come to Colorado and try the upper end climbs and down rate them, that is only for the community as a whole.

Cheers

By: B3

B3 — Thu, 06 May 2010 03:19:20 +0000

I don’t think anyone is saying people from Brazil aren’t capable, but from the looks of the video I don’t think anyone felt that it looked like V14. And we were correct. I would love to come to Brazil sometime and check out the bouldering.

By: dowgrader

dowgrader — Wed, 05 May 2010 20:41:16 +0000

you guys should come down to Brazil and try not only this boulder problem, but all the other lines. You would be surprised. But Hey, the guy so downgraded the O DIA SANTO to v13 after 2 days working it sent the TRICE in 20 minutes trying it? Well, them I guess TRICE shouldn’t be V12….maybe v9/v8/v7…..soft problem!
better, let our problem to us….for sure we will enjoy it and then go to US or EU and sent yours “said” hard problems in minutes of try or probabily flash or onsight…..take your eyes out of your own belly….the world is big! You guys whatch to much sender films or bigup movies! Talk less, climb more!

By: Brasil Climber

Brasil Climber — Tue, 04 May 2010 18:35:21 +0000

Well, for some guys that think this boulder is only V8 or V9, Felipe Camargo downgraded to V13, took for him 2 days to do the problem. And this week he sent Trice V12 at Flagstaff Mountain in only 20 min.
So, don´t judge difficulty of climbs only for the video.

By: Noruei

Noruei — Tue, 04 May 2010 17:12:26 +0000

The boulder has been downgraded to V13 after Felipe Camargos’s ascent. It’s located in São Bento do Sapucaí in the state of São Paulo.

By: Egghead

Egghead — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 04:54:38 +0000

Never mind. Figured it out via google Brazil. I used to live ~90 miles from there, eons ago. Funny. Pretty temperate area. State of Sao Paulo.

By: Egghead

Egghead — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 04:48:08 +0000

Anyone know where in Brazil this is exactly?

By: Tye Watkins

Tye Watkins — Thu, 24 Dec 2009 05:11:16 +0000

It’s pretty unlikely that the problem is any easier than V12 or V13.. here is a pretty huge and obvious difference between anything easier.

Also, it’s nearly impossible to judge how hard a climb is from a video. Weather could also have a huge impact on perceived rating. Uncut crimps on a 45 in hot and humid weather can be almost impossible to hold on to if they have no lip.

By: Egghead

Egghead — Thu, 24 Dec 2009 04:19:45 +0000

Cool line. It looked like with enough work I would have a shot at sending that V14, and I suck.

Not sure what’s with the shoe-gluing part. Coulda skipped that. Great video otherwise.