V14 in Brazil

Posted on 18. Dec, 2009 by in News

Here is an interesting video I first saw on Bjorn Pohl’s site, The Low Down. It features Brazilian climber André “Bele” Berezoski making the second ascent of O Dia Santo V14. I think it’s worth a watch, as the problem looks very good, there are several great slow motion shots and it’s always awesome to see difficult problems in other parts of the world.

O Dia Santo from carlos levy on Vimeo.

23 Responses to “V14 in Brazil”

  1. mervo

    18. Dec, 2009

    V14, huh…..

  2. sock hands

    18. Dec, 2009

    because i am dark again today:

    OMG i wish someone would treat my v7 sends with such great reverence via a documentary style high def video!

    also, if this is the second ascent, what’s up with the landscaping?

  3. sockhands

    18. Dec, 2009

    wait, scratch the above. the fa was snaked moments sooner and the line looks dope and it doesn’t matter that it looks doable by humans like me. the striking overhang overshadows grade conjecture

  4. Josh Dreher

    19. Dec, 2009

    It looks like there used to be a foot and half of soil on that boulder at one time. It must have been a lot of work cleaning it and by the looks of the problem, completely worth the effort.

  5. Crafty

    19. Dec, 2009

    That looks very much not V14. Psyched for that guy to send his project, but, frankly, without any sort of known track record of climbing other problems, and with video showing lots of incut crimps up a nice 45 degree overhang, I’m skeptical.

    There. I said what everyone is thinking…

  6. chuffer

    19. Dec, 2009

    Except for the lip encounter, where are the pissy slopers, heinous pinches and low-percentage moves? The problem looks good but I have a hard time believing this problem is anywhere near V14.

  7. Pdrizzle

    19. Dec, 2009

    Looks like a V6 at Red Feather

  8. greasy enchiladas

    20. Dec, 2009

    Jamie, No bikinied Ipanema girls? Brasil, WTF? Did you mean to put a 1 after the V and before the 4? No way that thing is V14, not even double digits, c’mon!

    BTW – talk to Chris Baker, now Injun HIlls, CO, for the Hueco perspective per your earlier post if you want the real deal. Keep your good bullshit coming! GE

  9. pootytaang

    21. Dec, 2009

    chipped crux crimper to boot

  10. um problema

    21. Dec, 2009

    I, too, will hate. With full knowledge that it’s really hard to tell how difficult something is from video: V8, no more.

  11. Danny

    22. Dec, 2009

    I feel like this post was bait for grade deliberation

  12. B3

    22. Dec, 2009

    I just thought it was interesting, as I think most people’s reaction is the same, that it doesn’t look so hard for V14.

  13. FonkeyDucker

    23. Dec, 2009

    I mean he did spend A LOT of days trying this thing.

    Plus he had a camera crew follow him around and he engaged in some fairly boulder specific training in buidling the crux on his wall….

    That ‘s a lot of work for V9…. But the title did get me to watch the thing!

  14. Egghead

    24. Dec, 2009

    Cool line. It looked like with enough work I would have a shot at sending that V14, and I suck.

    Not sure what’s with the shoe-gluing part. Coulda skipped that. Great video otherwise.

  15. Tye Watkins

    24. Dec, 2009

    It’s pretty unlikely that the problem is any easier than V12 or V13.. here is a pretty huge and obvious difference between anything easier.

    Also, it’s nearly impossible to judge how hard a climb is from a video. Weather could also have a huge impact on perceived rating. Uncut crimps on a 45 in hot and humid weather can be almost impossible to hold on to if they have no lip.

  16. Egghead

    09. Jan, 2010

    Anyone know where in Brazil this is exactly?

  17. Egghead

    09. Jan, 2010

    Never mind. Figured it out via google Brazil. I used to live ~90 miles from there, eons ago. Funny. Pretty temperate area. State of Sao Paulo.

  18. Noruei

    04. May, 2010

    The boulder has been downgraded to V13 after Felipe Camargos’s ascent. It’s located in São Bento do Sapucaí in the state of São Paulo.

  19. Brasil Climber

    04. May, 2010

    Well, for some guys that think this boulder is only V8 or V9, Felipe Camargo downgraded to V13, took for him 2 days to do the problem. And this week he sent Trice V12 at Flagstaff Mountain in only 20 min.
    So, don´t judge difficulty of climbs only for the video.

  20. dowgrader

    05. May, 2010

    you guys should come down to Brazil and try not only this boulder problem, but all the other lines. You would be surprised. But Hey, the guy so downgraded the O DIA SANTO to v13 after 2 days working it sent the TRICE in 20 minutes trying it? Well, them I guess TRICE shouldn’t be V12….maybe v9/v8/v7…..soft problem!
    better, let our problem to us….for sure we will enjoy it and then go to US or EU and sent yours “said” hard problems in minutes of try or probabily flash or onsight…..take your eyes out of your own belly….the world is big! You guys whatch to much sender films or bigup movies! Talk less, climb more!

  21. B3

    06. May, 2010

    I don’t think anyone is saying people from Brazil aren’t capable, but from the looks of the video I don’t think anyone felt that it looked like V14. And we were correct. I would love to come to Brazil sometime and check out the bouldering.

  22. Andrew

    07. May, 2010

    There should be a large difference in v12 and v13? Right? A capable v12 climber could send a v12 quite quickly and take 2 days on a V13.

    I’d like to come to Brazil and try your climbs any day.

    Personally I want to see a Brazilian come here to the USA and dominate. If they were so inclined to come to Colorado and try the upper end climbs and down rate them, that is only for the community as a whole.

    Cheers

  23. Christian

    21. Jun, 2010

    “That looks very much not V14. Psyched for that guy to send his project, but, frankly, without any sort of known track record of climbing other problems, and with video showing lots of incut crimps up a nice 45 degree overhang, I’m skeptical. ”

    Great perspective… André Berezovsky send 5.14 ten years ago… all the hard routes in Brazil in the last years, and some in Europe, EUA, etc…

    Daniel Woods do the problem this month, and say they are a V13. Any doubts? Come to Brazil and send the boulder, them you can talk about the grade.

    Cheers

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