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ABS Nationals

Posted on 18. Dec, 2009 by in News

I have once again been asked to be part of a small setting crew heading to Sportrock, VA for this years ABS Nationals Feb 12=14. This is the 11th year of the event. I am looking forward to working with the same great crew we had last year, including head setter Scotty Mechler. This is the 6th year I have been involved. Here is a link to the ABS website.
Speaking of the gym, a while back a “5.14a” was set at Movement by Mike Moelter and Ryan Sewell. However this .14a has been tried for three weeks by Boulders strongest and no one can seem to touch it. Gabor Szekely and Paul Robinson, who have both climbed 9a (5.14d) routes, and who are both in very good shape right now, have not sent the route, although Paul has put many attempts into this one, calling it solid 5.14c. In walks Daniel Woods, in my opinion the most powerful climber in the world, and puts on a display that left many a jaw on the floor by flashing the route. This was one of the most impressive things I have heard about in a while. He somehow seems to have stepped it up a notch, and I look forward to seeing him back in action on the boulders here in the US. Perhaps this winter the Boulder Canyon super project at Cob Rock will get climbed finally.

8 Responses to “ABS Nationals”

  1. wade

    18. Dec, 2009

    #$% Damn Right!

  2. MattS

    18. Dec, 2009

    Wow, that is super-impressive. I remember watching Paul try that one; it looked brutal-sustained.

  3. B3

    18. Dec, 2009

    It is hard to convey how strong Daniel is sometimes, but glad you appreciate it Matt. He put on a display.

  4. Thomas

    18. Dec, 2009


    On another note, I know you’re on your V10 quest, and Northwest Branch in Silver Springs, MD has a few (Curtain Call, Ultimate Doom, and Ultimate Doom Direct) that I’m pretty sure you’d dispatch quickly. Gabor’s Ultimate Doom problems are nothing spectacular (still fun, though, if you’re forced to live in DC for an extended period of time). I never did see James O’ Connor’s Curtain Call, which I heard was pretty good. Either way, they’re worth a tick if you’re in the neighborhood, and you can take rest breaks at a Starbucks which is a 2 minute walk from the little park.

    Two other problems of interest are Gabor’s ‘The Black Sun Rises’ V12/13, which is about a ten minute drive from the Sportrock Alexandria, VA location, and more importantly ‘Pick a Side and Commit’ (V9??).

    Pick a side and commit has perhaps seen only one ascent and that was by my friend Ben Gerhardstein. Gabor or James may have done it, but they never logged it or mentioned it. Also, the problem is actually in Rock Creek Park, which is in Washington, DC itself (not Maryland or Virginia). Ben is a very strong climber having done ‘The Shield’ in 3 days, and a quick one day ascent of God Module. Point being his problem in Rock Creek Park could be V10. If so, you could add DC to your V10 project list giving you a total of 50 states and the Capital District itself to do a V10 in.

    If you have anytime and want to check out these problems, I can give you any directions or beta you need to know on how to find them (Pick a side and Commit is relatively easy to locate via Google Maps). James and Gabor can definitively also tell you anything you need to know about their problems.

    Hope you have fun setting at the nationals, and say hello to Jeremy Hardin and Lillian Choa-Quilan (Sportrock president) for me. Also, while you’re there, try and imagine what it was like for me to have lived there for 3 full years with nothing, but indoor climbing near by after having lived in the Fort for 8. Painful to say the least. Very painful.


  5. B3

    18. Dec, 2009

    Tom, good to hear from you and I can’t thank you enough for all this beta. I may contact you as it gets closer to the comp. I was already trying to get a few extra days to hang out in DC but I love the idea of climbing a V10 in DC if there is one that would be awesome. I see James fairly regularly so I can ask him about some of those things but again thanks, this is awesome!

  6. jordon

    18. Dec, 2009

    there is a better v10 in rock state park. if you talk to jason kehl ask him about it. much better climb mentioned in the previous entry.

  7. Ejw

    22. Dec, 2009

    “Curtain Call” is definitely worth checking out if you make it to Northwest Branch in Silver Spring, much better than “Ultimate Doom” and its counterparts in my opinion. There are two or three V10ish climbs at Rock State Park worth doing as well.

  8. CryptoChild

    29. Dec, 2009

    Rocks State Park

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