Comments on: Utah http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/12/02/utah-2/ Jamie Emerson Tue, 07 Feb 2012 01:11:56 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: Kerrek http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/12/02/utah-2/comment-page-1/#comment-54128 Kerrek Fri, 12 Mar 2010 02:26:15 +0000 http://www.b3bouldering.com/?p=3326#comment-54128 Hey Jamie, I'm going to Joe's soon so I was wondering if you could tell me what you think the best guide for it is? Hey Jamie,
I’m going to Joe’s soon so I was wondering if you could tell me what you think the best guide for it is?

]]> By: Mike B http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/12/02/utah-2/comment-page-1/#comment-48848 Mike B Sat, 12 Dec 2009 22:08:26 +0000 http://www.b3bouldering.com/?p=3326#comment-48848 link got skewed... www.climbidaho.com link got skewed…

http://www.climbidaho.com

]]> By: Mike B http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/12/02/utah-2/comment-page-1/#comment-48847 Mike B Sat, 12 Dec 2009 22:07:29 +0000 http://www.b3bouldering.com/?p=3326#comment-48847 Ange--you can find some photos of Black Dahlia and a vid of it at www.climbidaho.com...pretty good Ange–you can find some photos of Black Dahlia and a vid of it at http://www.climbidaho.com…pretty good

]]> By: Ryan Held http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/12/02/utah-2/comment-page-1/#comment-48841 Ryan Held Sat, 12 Dec 2009 17:58:11 +0000 http://www.b3bouldering.com/?p=3326#comment-48841 Isaac, I apologize for my friends banter. I was just informed that this post was up. Thank you for the genius landing, a great find none the less. We got some good footage of the send too. What did you call the line? It seemed much harder than V6 to go straight up... If you like ask Jamie to alter the post. Hope lifel is treating you, Ryan Isaac,

I apologize for my friends banter. I was just informed that this post was up.

Thank you for the genius landing, a great find none the less. We got some good footage of the send too.

What did you call the line? It seemed much harder than V6 to go straight up…

If you like ask Jamie to alter the post.

Hope lifel is treating you,
Ryan

]]> By: isaac caldiero http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/12/02/utah-2/comment-page-1/#comment-48595 isaac caldiero Tue, 08 Dec 2009 09:02:56 +0000 http://www.b3bouldering.com/?p=3326#comment-48595 AHh no doubt the top of this boulder was a bit chossy but there was definitely enough solid little crimpy flakes for me to pull to the top, granted i didnt pry off or break many holds that would break very easily, after rappelling down and scrubbing the few holds i thought were the only ones i needed, which were in fact few and far between, there is actually two lines i believe that go with the same start and eventually the same finish after the first few moves i chose to head a couple holds more left than right true, by the looks of the photos you have both methods chalked, did you guys go left or right for it looked as if the right was a bit harder?? once back on the ground and an hours worth of trundling boulders for a landing, i sent first try, so maybe it was a bit hasty to say v6 could be harder sure things feel easy when done first try, anyways regardless its an amazing piece of rock, and im glad people finally ventured up there. As far as battletoads i used a completely retarded method that i still believe is much harder than the sequence i see in video's and what better way to get people up to an amazing bloc by throwing out a high grade heheh JK! AHh no doubt the top of this boulder was a bit chossy but there was definitely enough solid little crimpy flakes for me to pull to the top, granted i didnt pry off or break many holds that would break very easily, after rappelling down and scrubbing the few holds i thought were the only ones i needed, which were in fact few and far between,
there is actually two lines i believe that go with the same start and eventually the same finish after the first few moves i chose to head a couple holds more left than right true, by the looks of the photos you have both methods chalked, did you guys go left or right for it looked as if the right was a bit harder?? once back on the ground and an hours worth of trundling boulders for a landing, i sent first try, so maybe it was a bit hasty to say v6 could be harder sure things feel easy when done first try, anyways regardless its an amazing piece of rock, and im glad people finally ventured up there. As far as battletoads i used a completely retarded method that i still believe is much harder than the sequence i see in video’s and what better way to get people up to an amazing bloc by throwing out a high grade heheh JK!

]]> By: Watchdog http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/12/02/utah-2/comment-page-1/#comment-48475 Watchdog Sun, 06 Dec 2009 23:01:17 +0000 http://www.b3bouldering.com/?p=3326#comment-48475 Interesting! I am so glad that Groundation was climbed over a year ago! And by one of the "Greats" no less. I was out there when the line was cleaned by Rocco and Ryan and there was no possible way this line was climbed direct. The only holds on top of the boulder were sandy flakes broken off with only the slightest pull. Impossible to pull on without breaking. Only small crimps were left and therefore further securs the fact that it had not been done direct. There were no other holds to pull on up there save the ones that were cleaned. So if it was done, it was done heading out left onto easier territory and safely topped out well to the left of the direct line. Also there was no foot rubber on any of the cleaned holds until after a few burns have been put to it. As far as V6... I think not. Didn't Isaac rate Battletoads V12? But I guess even the pros make mistakes. Have a great day and keep up the good work. Interesting! I am so glad that Groundation was climbed over a year ago! And by one of the “Greats” no less. I was out there when the line was cleaned by Rocco and Ryan and there was no possible way this line was climbed direct. The only holds on top of the boulder were sandy flakes broken off with only the slightest pull. Impossible to pull on without breaking. Only small crimps were left and therefore further securs the fact that it had not been done direct. There were no other holds to pull on up there save the ones that were cleaned. So if it was done, it was done heading out left onto easier territory and safely topped out well to the left of the direct line. Also there was no foot rubber on any of the cleaned holds until after a few burns have been put to it. As far as V6… I think not. Didn’t Isaac rate Battletoads V12? But I guess even the pros make mistakes. Have a great day and keep up the good work.

]]> By: EC http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/12/02/utah-2/comment-page-1/#comment-48435 EC Sun, 06 Dec 2009 00:24:11 +0000 http://www.b3bouldering.com/?p=3326#comment-48435 I think time is a big factor too. I don't know what goes on in other peoples heads, but when I got somewhere like Joe's I want to get the most bang for my buck, which usually means focusing on the classics in the guide. I love putting up new stuff around home, but if I only have a handfull of days per year I'd rather go with the established classics. That being said, I would really like to be able to spend a couple months exploring Joe's. I think time is a big factor too. I don’t know what goes on in other peoples heads, but when I got somewhere like Joe’s I want to get the most bang for my buck, which usually means focusing on the classics in the guide. I love putting up new stuff around home, but if I only have a handfull of days per year I’d rather go with the established classics. That being said, I would really like to be able to spend a couple months exploring Joe’s.

]]> By: ange http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/12/02/utah-2/comment-page-1/#comment-48424 ange Sat, 05 Dec 2009 18:41:41 +0000 http://www.b3bouldering.com/?p=3326#comment-48424 gets me psyched to climb outside again. joe's is certainly one of the best. thanks for the pictures. do you have one of black dahlia? gets me psyched to climb outside again. joe’s is certainly one of the best. thanks for the pictures. do you have one of black dahlia?

]]> By: sidepull http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/12/02/utah-2/comment-page-1/#comment-48392 sidepull Sat, 05 Dec 2009 00:52:35 +0000 http://www.b3bouldering.com/?p=3326#comment-48392 Sad. I mean really, really sad. PS - I like the Dave Graham comparison. I always thought he was a bit of a punk when he first came on the scene, but the guy has really done a lot of good stuff for the community at large and inspired skinny, gollum-like folk to climb hard. :) Sad. I mean really, really sad.

PS – I like the Dave Graham comparison. I always thought he was a bit of a punk when he first came on the scene, but the guy has really done a lot of good stuff for the community at large and inspired skinny, gollum-like folk to climb hard. :)

]]> By: B3 http://www.b3bouldering.com/2009/12/02/utah-2/comment-page-1/#comment-48382 B3 Fri, 04 Dec 2009 20:49:26 +0000 http://www.b3bouldering.com/?p=3326#comment-48382 I think that for the most part that is what is happening. Dave Graham was 18 I think and he made RMNP an area. Then, a few years later, he moved to Ticino and put up a majority of the hard problems there. The younger climbers have yet to find and create there own areas. It takes alot of effort to hike around and put up good new problems and they just don't seem to be interested, based on what they have done so far. It;s unfortunate too, because they have the means to do so. If there is evidence to the contrary I don't see it. I think that for the most part that is what is happening. Dave Graham was 18 I think and he made RMNP an area. Then, a few years later, he moved to Ticino and put up a majority of the hard problems there. The younger climbers have yet to find and create there own areas. It takes alot of effort to hike around and put up good new problems and they just don’t seem to be interested, based on what they have done so far. It;s unfortunate too, because they have the means to do so. If there is evidence to the contrary I don’t see it.

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