Utah

Utah

Posted on 02. Dec, 2009 by in Joe's Valley

I spent Thanksgiving in Utah, mostly in Joe’s Valley, with a stop in Moab, checking out some of the great new problems and trying to repeat some old classics. I felt fairly unfocused and I tried many good, new lines but only managed a few problems. I didn’t have a very successful trip, but I did see several great problems I would like to go back and try. I put a couple days into Black Lung, but surprisingly it was too warm, as Area 51 was mostly sunny all weekend. I was looking forward to trying The Masterpiece V13 as well, but I couldn’t convince anyone to head over there and so that will wait for another trip. I also stopped by the Big Bend boulders, outside of Moab, and I will write about that later this week. Anyways, besides any more reporting about my lackluster climbing, here are directions to some of the new problems I saw.

A new sector in the Left Fork has yielded three classics. To access this new area, drive about 150yds past the mine cart and park in a large pullout on the right side of the road. An obvious trail will lead about 200yds up the hill to the new boulders. Farthest left is Groundation V8 or V9, which I did not try. It climbs up some really nice incut crimps on a slight over hang. It looks straight out of Hueco Tanks and I look forward to getting some pads and giving it a good effort. The problem faces up canyon.
IMG_1419 Groundation
The second problem of note is called The Obelisk V8-V10? Again, i didn’t try this one but it looked very nice. This is almost straight up from the parking lot, and is visible about half way up the hill, up and to the left. It starts in the middle of the face and heads right, to the arete.
IMG_1413 The Obelisk
The third, and best problem is called The Black Dahlia V10, and was put up by Mike Bockino. I did try this one a few times at the end of the day but didn’t do it. A few others who I talked to who had climbed it had nothing but great things to say about line. It lies hidden in a gulley of boulders about 200 yds up from the road, three quaters of the way to the cliffband and is the right most problem.

I spent several rest days exploring the desert of Utah, looking for boulders, taking pictures, and enjoying the freedom road tripping affords a solo traveler. I took some pictures I was happy with, read some books and off the beaten path, far away from the usual spots, I found a stunning project. I properly cleaned it and maybe someday I’ll get the chance to go and give it some effort. Here is a picture.
IMG_1399

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19 Responses to “Utah”

  1. wyclimber

    02. Dec, 2009

    The new one looks great. I wish there was something in the shot to give me reference to the size. Nevertheless it looks stunning.

  2. Jweb

    02. Dec, 2009

    Yea, very nice new line jamie! Haven’t seen green rock like that in joes.

  3. isaac caldiero

    02. Dec, 2009

    Hey Jaime, glad to see you made it back to the best bouldering area in the country. heheh, Those new boulders are pretty cool i actually have done the FA of this so called Groundation over a year ago, tis more like v6! but did you check out the suppa proj to the left of this problem absolutely stunning, ive spent many hours and days cleaning and building landings for these boulders, and this one definitely need to be climbed. when you headed back BUB?? ill be there round mid Dec.

  4. B3

    02. Dec, 2009

    Isaace, thanks for the info. The guy who said he put it up called it V10, I didn’t try it, but other people who did do it were calling it V9 but said it was easy. Nice work, either way that’s a good one. That project to the left if amazing. I didn’t try it. Hope you are well!

  5. abe.

    02. Dec, 2009

    Sick !!! Emerson

    the blocs look great.
    finding nu shitt is just as fun as climbing. all about the adventure. juiced.

  6. chuffer

    03. Dec, 2009

    Pics from Joe’s always inspire.

  7. sidepull

    04. Dec, 2009

    What surprises me about Joe’s is lack of truly world class problems in terms of sheer difficulty. It seems that there’s enough rock that someone would have found small enough holds spaced far enough apart to establish something really cutting edge (eg, B3 or V15ish).

    I don’t mean to take away from all the other test pieces. I think there are problems that are 5 star classics that are standards for their grades and the new problems look stellar. It would just be cool to see Joe’s produce something that really makes the world take notice.

  8. B3

    04. Dec, 2009

    I totally agree, but trying to convince the youngsters that they don’t need to repeat an overgraded V13 is not going to happen. Again I think 8a is not helping the issue.

  9. sidepull

    04. Dec, 2009

    Wow! So what you’re saying is that the new generation would rather have a cool 8a.nu scorecard than put the time into creating the next “Midnight Lightning” or “Dreamtime”?

    Do you really think sponsors see it that way? Wouldn’t they rather see their climbers go on a Chris Sharma “Rampage” and just put up a ton of cutting edge stuff and let everyone else sort out the particulars rather than repeating hard stuff.

    I didn’t realize 8a was having that big of an effect. I’m sad if it is.

  10. B3

    04. Dec, 2009

    I think that for the most part that is what is happening. Dave Graham was 18 I think and he made RMNP an area. Then, a few years later, he moved to Ticino and put up a majority of the hard problems there. The younger climbers have yet to find and create there own areas. It takes alot of effort to hike around and put up good new problems and they just don’t seem to be interested, based on what they have done so far. It;s unfortunate too, because they have the means to do so. If there is evidence to the contrary I don’t see it.

  11. sidepull

    05. Dec, 2009

    Sad. I mean really, really sad.

    PS – I like the Dave Graham comparison. I always thought he was a bit of a punk when he first came on the scene, but the guy has really done a lot of good stuff for the community at large and inspired skinny, gollum-like folk to climb hard. :)

  12. ange

    05. Dec, 2009

    gets me psyched to climb outside again. joe’s is certainly one of the best. thanks for the pictures. do you have one of black dahlia?

  13. EC

    06. Dec, 2009

    I think time is a big factor too. I don’t know what goes on in other peoples heads, but when I got somewhere like Joe’s I want to get the most bang for my buck, which usually means focusing on the classics in the guide. I love putting up new stuff around home, but if I only have a handfull of days per year I’d rather go with the established classics. That being said, I would really like to be able to spend a couple months exploring Joe’s.

  14. Watchdog

    06. Dec, 2009

    Interesting! I am so glad that Groundation was climbed over a year ago! And by one of the “Greats” no less. I was out there when the line was cleaned by Rocco and Ryan and there was no possible way this line was climbed direct. The only holds on top of the boulder were sandy flakes broken off with only the slightest pull. Impossible to pull on without breaking. Only small crimps were left and therefore further securs the fact that it had not been done direct. There were no other holds to pull on up there save the ones that were cleaned. So if it was done, it was done heading out left onto easier territory and safely topped out well to the left of the direct line. Also there was no foot rubber on any of the cleaned holds until after a few burns have been put to it. As far as V6… I think not. Didn’t Isaac rate Battletoads V12? But I guess even the pros make mistakes. Have a great day and keep up the good work.

  15. isaac caldiero

    08. Dec, 2009

    AHh no doubt the top of this boulder was a bit chossy but there was definitely enough solid little crimpy flakes for me to pull to the top, granted i didnt pry off or break many holds that would break very easily, after rappelling down and scrubbing the few holds i thought were the only ones i needed, which were in fact few and far between,
    there is actually two lines i believe that go with the same start and eventually the same finish after the first few moves i chose to head a couple holds more left than right true, by the looks of the photos you have both methods chalked, did you guys go left or right for it looked as if the right was a bit harder?? once back on the ground and an hours worth of trundling boulders for a landing, i sent first try, so maybe it was a bit hasty to say v6 could be harder sure things feel easy when done first try, anyways regardless its an amazing piece of rock, and im glad people finally ventured up there. As far as battletoads i used a completely retarded method that i still believe is much harder than the sequence i see in video’s and what better way to get people up to an amazing bloc by throwing out a high grade heheh JK!

  16. Ryan Held

    12. Dec, 2009

    Isaac,

    I apologize for my friends banter. I was just informed that this post was up.

    Thank you for the genius landing, a great find none the less. We got some good footage of the send too.

    What did you call the line? It seemed much harder than V6 to go straight up…

    If you like ask Jamie to alter the post.

    Hope lifel is treating you,
    Ryan

  17. Mike B

    12. Dec, 2009

    Ange–you can find some photos of Black Dahlia and a vid of it at http://www.climbidaho.com…pretty good

  18. Mike B

    12. Dec, 2009

    link got skewed…

    http://www.climbidaho.com

  19. Kerrek

    12. Mar, 2010

    Hey Jamie,
    I’m going to Joe’s soon so I was wondering if you could tell me what you think the best guide for it is?

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