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Archive for December, 2009

Fred Nicole

Posted on 28. Dec, 2009 by .

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Chuck Fryberger has produced an excellent short of bouldering legend Fred Nicole. Very well done. I am glad Chuck has taken the time to document some of Fred’s climbing. I lament the disinterest younger climbers generally have towards developing new areas, as it seems all too easy to tick a V13 to add to list. […]

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Happy Holidays

Happy Holidays

Posted on 24. Dec, 2009 by .

7

Just a quick post at the end of the year. I will be taking a few days off from B3, but fear not, I shall return. To the faithful, the faithless, and the devotees to our wonderful sport of bouldering , I wish you all the very best! Thanks for all the support!

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V14 Flash by Ondra

Posted on 21. Dec, 2009 by .

5

Unbelievable news out of Cresciano, Swtizerland as Adam Ondra has flashed Confessions V14. This is the first flash of the grade. Confessions is a stunning arete on perfect rock. I will post pictures of the problem later today. Sick! Here is a link (but you must be logged in) to watch Daniel Woods send Confessions […]

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Guidebook discussion with Rangers

Guidebook discussion with Rangers

Posted on 20. Dec, 2009 by .

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Sunday Fred Knapp and I drove up to the visitor center at Rocky Mountain National Park to talk about a bouldering guide with the three rangers. I am going to share what I learned, and some of what you can expect to see in the guide. 1. The rangers are not shutting down bouldering in […]

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V14 in Switzerland

V14 in Switzerland

Posted on 19. Dec, 2009 by .

2

Speaking of V14s, Nalle Hukkataival has added a new one to Ticino, across the valley from Chironico, called Ninja Skills. There is one photo on his blog, but he assures me there are more to come. If you click on this photo (or any that I post at the top) you can see the full […]

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V14 in Brazil

Posted on 18. Dec, 2009 by .

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O Dia Santo from carlos levy on Vimeo.

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ABS Nationals

Posted on 18. Dec, 2009 by .

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I have once again been asked to be part of a small setting crew heading to Sportrock, VA for this years ABS Nationals Feb 12=14. This is the 11th year of the event. I am looking forward to working with the same great crew we had last year, including head setter Scotty Mechler. This is […]

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Hueco Before and After

Hueco Before and After

Posted on 16. Dec, 2009 by .

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Hueco Tanks is probably the best bouldering in America, and with good reason. The rock forms incredibly solid features for steep climbing, the concentration is outstanding, the weather is dry and sunny all winter, the food is great, etc. etc. The reasons why Hueco Tanks is so popular are endless. I have had some of […]

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Dreamtime

Dreamtime

Posted on 14. Dec, 2009 by .

1

Two weeks ago there was a great discussion about Dreamtime, its broken hold, and the ethics of gluing and chipping. Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival has reclimbed the problem from a stand start after the crucial sidepull hold broke, suggesting V13, and putting an end to the debate (hopefully!) He says the full line could be […]

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Horsetooth Guidebook

Horsetooth Guidebook

Posted on 11. Dec, 2009 by .

8

Cameron Cross and Ben Scott have done a nice job on a new Horsetooth Guidebook. Check it out at the Northern Colorado Climbing Coalition website here.

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