Red Feather

Red Feather

Posted on 23. Nov, 2009 by in Red Feather Lakes

It is that time of year again, and Saturday I went to Red Feather Lakes with Chad Greedy, Brian Camp and Chris Craft. Red Feather has become a place for me to get really psyched on, as there are just loads of good hard problems to develop. Last season the new installations were The Vampire, Mastodon V12 and The Big Bang V12, and several easier things. Mastodon and The Big Bang are unrepeated. This year the top projects are:

1.The Dracula Project, which heads left from The Vampire
2.The Parvin Project, which I have done all the moves on and is in the V12 range
3.The Swoosh Project, which is very hard crimping, probably 8B.
4.The Arete, haven’t put a lot of effort into this one but it is a V12-V14 18ft arete. Amazing.
5.The Smurf Project. We can’t forget about The Smurf Project
6.Clubber Lang sit, there is a very hard sit start, perhaps V14 to Clubber Lang that has yet to be climbed.

Anyways, it was Chad’s first trip and he seemed to enjoy himself. We started out on a couple of nice warmups.

IMG_1094

IMG_1081A Classic V4

We moved on, to the Toucan Boulder. Last year I put up a problem called The Vampire, which I graded V12. The first move is really hard, perhaps a hard V10 move on its own. It involves a precise stab into a slot. Brian Capps made a repeat but several others who tried the problem in the spring repeated it with a toehook on the lip. I had tried the toehook, and found it to be very difficult. I went back this year, hoping to link the beginning of The Vampire into an unnamed V10 I put up last year to the left. I again tried the toehook method and again found it impossible. I did all the moves on the link-up, using my original method and am psyched to get back soon. Thin, crimpy and powerful, I really like the climbing style. This is another problem that is at least solid V12 if not V13. There is still a great lip traverse project on the same boulder, which I have yet to try.

IMG_1107Chad Greedy is always psyched. The Dracula Project photo Brian Camp

IMG_1114The Dracula Project photo Brian Camp

Tags: , , ,

4 Responses to “Red Feather”

  1. Felice Navidad

    23. Nov, 2009

    Sick Chad

  2. Andre

    23. Nov, 2009

    That classic V4 actually has a name. It’s called Nerection and was put up by THE Collin Kopitzke.

  3. Cam

    25. Nov, 2009

    I think Andre’s wrong about that one…I’m fairly sure that Geoff, Ben, or one of the original crew put that up long before Collin moved to town. The name is amusing, although it probably never got named anything originally.

    CC

  4. Collin Kopitzke

    08. Dec, 2009

    I did not put up this boulder.

Leave a Reply