Dreamtime has broken

Dreamtime has broken

Posted on 11. Nov, 2009 by in News

The classic boulder Dreamtime V14 in Cresiano has broken, and here are the pictures.



There is not a whole lot of information beyond these photos, and it’s unclear if the problem still goes, but unfortunate none the less.

24 Responses to “Dreamtime has broken”

  1. anon

    12. Nov, 2009

    just glue it back on, the bolt hold on the Lightning was reinforced back in the early nineties, better that than no hold

  2. crafty

    12. Nov, 2009

    sidepulls are the new slopers, pass it on.

  3. greasy enchiladas con cialis

    12. Nov, 2009

    Agreed; so was 61.76% of Morrison and 38.45% of married couples over the age of 38. Purists find refuge!

    Vatos for Life Pendejos! XO GECCDT

  4. robi

    12. Nov, 2009

    Shit happens… Doesn’t matter who did it, but try to fix it somehow.

  5. […] Ve?, ?eprav je že to preve?, na b3bouldering.com […]

  6. […] Zdroj: B3bouldering.com […]

  7. bronco

    12. Nov, 2009

    glue it

  8. Justin

    12. Nov, 2009

    it still goes, but now we know its choss so who cares anyway?

  9. photoguy190

    12. Nov, 2009

    The old problem is gone, no for some one to come and figure this new problem out. Keep the glue at home

  10. micah

    12. Nov, 2009

    Its called the evolution of a boulder problem.

  11. Rocco

    12. Nov, 2009

    That’s the left hand that the dyno goes off of, right? Uh, oh. Moral conundrum….

  12. Macca

    13. Nov, 2009

    Dreamtime has previously come under fire for chipped holds and hold enhancement, so a glued hold wouldn’t be the end of the world. It would be a shame to see a classic hard problem changed completely.

  13. andreas

    13. Nov, 2009

    someone in the future will come and do it without this hold. to glue it would mean there is no developement in bouldering. Ondra did dreamtime in 4 hours. how long would he have to try now..nobody curious?

  14. Tiago Rocha

    13. Nov, 2009

    it has a new hold!

  15. robi

    14. Nov, 2009

    Is it harder now? Is it easyer? Allready climbed after this? Thanx in advance.

  16. dan

    15. Nov, 2009

    #$%#@ happens, rocks breaks. Leave the glue at home.

  17. David

    16. Nov, 2009

    Like Micah said “Its called the evolution of a boulder problem.”
    When the hold broke on Evilution in Bishop no one was saying glue the hold back on. Granted its not one of the hardest problem in the world, holds break everyday and people go climb them anyway. Yes this sucks to see this happen do such a majestic problem. Let move forward. Now we have a new one that maybe harder or easier then it was before. Its sad to see this problem go but again its the evolution of boulder problems.

  18. […] Fred Nicole’s Dreamtime (V14), one of the most famous boulder problems in the world, has broken. […]

  19. Dave C

    17. Nov, 2009

    who cares… its one of millions of boulders in the world and there might be a few hundred people in the world who can throw down on this problem. None of us could even pull to the lip. Plus it was already chipped and molested by wire brushes. Respect to Fred who had the vision to climb it and all the other who sent it but since the FA its gone down hill. There are many more classics that have yet to be found.

  20. TOMMY caldwell

    18. Nov, 2009

    glue it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  21. Steve

    19. Nov, 2009

    So you’re the first to report it? I bet you broke it.

  22. B3

    20. Nov, 2009

    As much as I would love to be in Switzerland my feet are firmly planted in Colorado right now.

  23. Blake B

    13. Dec, 2009

    so guys, it seems that Nalle H. has done the first ascent of Dreamtime stand start after the break, and gave it 8b. He said the sit could go around hard 8c. Check 8a.nu for more info.

  24. […] Ticino, Switzerland where he recently did the first repeat of the stand start to Dreamtime since it broke a few weeks back.  Formerly V12, Hukkataival felt the stand start is likely V13 now with the once […]

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