Boulder Canyon

Posted on 11. Nov, 2009 by in News

Yesterday Andre Difelice and I went to Boulder Canyon to check out Authentic Battle Damage V13 put up by Chris Schulte. Andre did the second ascent in about an hour, and in about 3 tries after figuring out his beta. I climbed to the mantel but fell off because I simply forgot what to do. I was too tired to finish. I am glad I have good friends to laugh at me when things like this happen and it was well deserved. Today I came back and did it on my second try. It is easy to want to take the grade when climbing such a hard problem so quickly, but it is also important to be honest about my ability. I talked to Andre for a while about it and we came to the conclusion that V12 seemed more appropriate. I think that it may even be easier, as I found it comparable to Muddy Waters in Clear Creek Canyon. I think it’s important to compare problems not on the low end, but on the upper end. ABD is clearly easier than Dark Waters, which seems to have settled at the upper end of V12, nor does it compare to Nuthin’ But Sunshine, The Automator, or Circadian Rhtyhm, the standards for the V13 grade here in Colorado. I bring all this up as it ties in to last week’s discussion and Dave’s thoughts, and I feel the same way. I want to climb really really hard. As hard as I possibly can, in the best style, on the best and hardest problems I can climb.

Here is a link video of Chris climbing the FA, along with Davey Jones Locker V8, which looks like a great problem.

Here is a link to directions to the problem and a description of the moves. Interestingly enough, Andre and I started where Chris starts in the video, with our right hands on the low part of the arete, and our left hands on a small crimp in a seam. This is different than the start Chris describes on Mountain Project. Confusing to say the least.

We finished the day with a great session in the gym with some good friends I hadn’t seen in a while.

Tomorrow I leave for MI for the weekend and hopefully I will get a day out at the boulders in Ohio. It looks like I will be heading to Brecksville, near Cleveland, as it is only 2 hours or so from my house. Besides that, I look forward to relaxing and reading with my parents. Dostoevsky’s The Idiot is on the agenda.

8 Responses to “Boulder Canyon”

  1. slabdyno

    11. Nov, 2009

    cool looking v4

  2. mervo

    11. Nov, 2009

    There is, indeed, nothing more annoying than to be, for instance, wealthy, of good family, nice-looking, fairly intelligent, and even good-natured, and yet to have no talents, no special faculty, no peculiarity even, not one idea of one’s own, to be precisely “like other people.”

  3. sockhands

    11. Nov, 2009

    i have three dostoevsky novels at three different, but all lame, levels of completion. started on smokestacks in the east. faultered when i moved to colorado.

    though only B1+, B3 for me.

    damn eastern europeans take their time in describing events.

    god speed.

  4. chris schulte

    11. Nov, 2009

    nice job with finishing the line! I saw you and sander out there this spring, and wondered if you had done it then.. Indeed, on reflection, it was not as hard for me as dark waters was, but i thought it was harder than gecko, given v12/13. I also thought it was harder than Trainspotting, or the Red Snapper, and about the same as Botox Bowtie in Joe’s. Having just come back from Font (and brushing snow off the climb the same day I did it) my idea of grade was probably (or obviously) a bit skewy.. I did suggest 8b though, with a v12 “footnote”. I edited what I could on Mountain Project ( I had donr the line from a different start, and forgot about MP.. Ahh, internet..) But i couldn’t figure out how to change the grade! Alas, it’s forever immortalized in the Boulder Canyon Guidebook; I bugged out a little when I saw that, and mentioned it to Andy Mann that I thought it well could be easier, that it needed some consensus before going to print.. Andy shrugged, and dropped some knowledge :”Ahh, well. Who gives a shit. It’s a good problem.”
    Glad some other folks showed an interest, hope you enjoyed the climbing!

  5. OHclimber

    11. Nov, 2009

    Brecksville! :) Are you going out to there with Brian ? He knows the area like the back of his hand. Please post some pictures :)

  6. Andre Di Felice

    11. Nov, 2009

    Seth, what are you even talking about??

  7. mervo

    12. Nov, 2009

    Read more, climb less and you might have a clue. It’s from the book Jemerson is about to read.

  8. chris schulte

    12. Nov, 2009

    aleksandr solzhenitsyn. the gulag archipelago.
    unrepeatable.
    at least, i’ll never repeat it..

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