Bouldering in Ohio

Bouldering in Ohio

Posted on 02. Nov, 2009 by B3 in News

I will be traveling home sometime in the next two weeks. A while back I got a post about some bouldering near Cleveland, OH (with potential projects) and I would love to go check it out and get a tour. If anyone has any information, I am hoping to tick a V10 in Ohio if I have the chance. Whipps Ledges? Hinkley? Some new area? My knowledge is limited and I would love any beta anyone might have. Thanks!

16 Responses to “Bouldering in Ohio”

  1. Aaron

    02. Nov, 2009

    I know there has been some development down in Athens but not sure if there is anything hard

  2. Mike

    02. Nov, 2009

    Jamie,
    Give me a call if you’re coming through Cleveland–(216) 409-2670. I’ll show you a couple things I know that haven’t yet been done. Although, moss grows thick and quick back here and if the weather is at all damp two days before climbing you’re all but screwed. Safe travels,
    Tucker

  3. chuffer

    02. Nov, 2009

    I think Tendon wrote a guide for Whipps Ledges before he moved west, circa 1999, so ask him. In WL’s defense, they are in town and comprise fairly solid short sandstone cliffs and a few free-standing rocks, but they have/had ridiculous rules involving permits and they are/were regularly patrolled.

    The stuff off the beaten path I saw about 30 minutes away from Cleveland in Twinsburg (I think?) had potential but was covered in a lifetime of moss and other detritus in the mid 90’s. Who knows, maybe the bouldering revolution has uncovered something …

  4. chuffer

    02. Nov, 2009

    When people say Hinckley, they mean Whipps Ledges. One and the same. Top-roping central. You won’t believe your eyes if you go there on a nice day …

  5. Will Stites

    02. Nov, 2009

    I grew up climbing at Hinckley/Whipps Ledges. Not sure if there are any v10s – there were not when I was climbing there. However a lot of development has gone on since the mid 90’s so I wouldn’t be surprised. There is definitely some fun bouldering at least by Ohio’s standards and I think you will have a pleasant day out. Hinckley is not a huge area – pretty much just a cliff line that you can follow along and find all of the bouldering areas as you go. Send me an email and I can give you more details about how to get there, where the bouldering is, or any other such thing. If you go on the weekend, you will likely find people to show you around. I have a lot of fond memories there – I first climbed there in 1986 and my father climbed there in the 70’s.

  6. Brian

    02. Nov, 2009

    I sent an email to you (assuming I still have the right one?)

  7. Ange

    02. Nov, 2009

    CLIMB TIME

  8. Dylan Proudfoot

    02. Nov, 2009

    The current hardest project I know about in Athens is behind Hocking College. Crimpy overhang w/ bad holds to the top out. Fortunately, the Athens bouldering guru is the Outdoor Pursuits coordinator at Hocking College. He’s the one to talk to: Tim Rice. Check out Athensbouldering.blogspot.com to get in contact with Tim

  9. B3

    02. Nov, 2009

    Brian, my email is jamiecemerson@gmail.com . I dont think I got it. Thanks everyone for the info!!!

  10. OHclimber

    02. Nov, 2009

    Get in contact with Brian, he’s the man to get to know for bouldering in the OH. Good luck, hope you find the place I eluded to a few weeks ago. Viva OH boulders!!!

  11. Brian

    02. Nov, 2009

    Jamie, I re-sent it. Let me know if you still don’t get it.

  12. Justin Roth

    02. Nov, 2009

    Dylan’s right. I went to Athens with him, Tim Rice, and some others and had a great time. There’s a risickulous project called Big Mama that I believe is still a project … probably more because of the landing than the difficulty of moves. Go here for some info and a few photos: http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/problog/justinroth/roth2/ (the second page of the post has a shot of Big Mama). There seems to be a fair bit of sandstone around Athens. Here’s a video from some of the local folks: http://vimeo.com/2359373

  13. B3

    02. Nov, 2009

    Justin, the first picture on the post looks awesome, I would love to go here!

  14. Shay.rosser

    03. Nov, 2009

    I know the lines that Dylan is talking about. There is potential for some really hard lines there. The roof is like 45 degrees and all the holds are there, they just need to be climbed. Tim is the local guide book for these parts. He is the man to talk to.

  15. Brian

    03. Nov, 2009

    Justin, Jamie, the pictures on the first page of that link about Athens are from a boulder on private land. Originally everyone thought it was public land, but I was chased off by an angry landowner (with her gun and German shepherd).

    Other than that bad experience, I have always enjoyed climbing in Athens and the rock is some of the best in Ohio for sure.

  16. Steve Woodward

    03. Nov, 2009

    I would suggest Brecksville, aka, Chippewa Creek near Cleveland for harder, aesthetic lines in North East OH. Probably the highest concentration of V8+ problems in OH, also has the most potential. Whipps ledges has a few harder problems, but those tend to stay wet or mossy for most of the season. Best of Luck with you quest.

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