Midnight Lightning

Posted on 15. Oct, 2009 by in News

Midnight Lightning from Deep Roots Media – Dane Henry on Vimeo.

First of all, it’s awesome to see bouldering get some attention and have it be well explained in the mainstream media.   Secondly, I thought I would share a story of a time when I was in Yosemite, bouldering with Tommy Caldwell.

At the time I wasn’t even aware that Tommy bouldered much, but his strength was obvious as he would run daily laps on difficult Valley testpieces Thriller V10 and The Force V11. I was with Angela Payne and she was trying to do a rare female ascent of Midnight Lightning. Tommy gave us a great warmup tour of the boulders in Camp 4. We took a little break and eventually made our way over to the famous problem. Our campsite was about 100ft away. We grabbed our pads and Tommy went to get his. It soon became apparent to the camping climbers that not only were people about to climb on Midnight Lightning, Tommy Caldwell was about to climb on this problem and a whispering crowd gathered around. Tommy assured us he had several methods and I was confident he demonstrate with flawless execution. We arranged the pads, Tommy confidently chalked up, pulled up on the starting holds, and his foot slipped unexpectedly and he totally just ate it. There may have been a collective gasp from the crowd, and I couldn’t help but laugh. Check out this video of Tommy Caldwell cruising Midnight Lightning in Yosemite, with a sound byte from first ascentionist Ron Kauk.

4 Responses to “Midnight Lightning”

  1. Ange

    15. Oct, 2009

    thanks for posting this jamie. makes those days spent pulling my hair under the columbia boulder seem worth it. and makes me laugh to remember the tommy story. that happened AFTER tommy had climbed thriller, the force (?) and after midnight all first try. good stuff.

  2. Justin

    15. Oct, 2009

    Classic. That foot hold has taken down quite a few people. I bet more people with dirty shoes have tried this problem than any other. 5.8 climbers walk up with their hiking boots on and try and scramble their way up the first moves, grinding away at the already polished holds. In a way its almost worth it for moments like the one you describe above. Cheers, Jamie.

  3. tommy caldwell

    16. Oct, 2009

    im crying right now … i love you Jamie …

  4. campusman

    18. Oct, 2009

    the climb is a lot steeper than i thought before.

Leave a Reply