Keymaker, Second Ascent

Keymaker, Second Ascent

Posted on 14. Oct, 2009 by in News

In a news article that most likely will not make the headlines at 8a, climbing.com or anywhere else, Nic Oklobzija has made the second ascent of The Keymaker at Devils Lake in Wisconsin. Well done. This problem was first climbed in 2003 I believe, by local Brian Sandona, was given V11, and has been unrepeated since then. I climbed the bottom half of the boulder problem in less than ideal conditions in May.

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Photos courtesy Brian Runnells

Nic’s comment from 8a.nu is as follows, “Second ascent after 5+ years? B3 into B2+. Could be anywhere from 9 to 11. A fantastic problem.” Coincidence that Nic’s ascent (and comments) came just a week after my B3 boulders post?

It’s great to see other climbers who understand and appreciate the value of a B3 boulder, and congrats to Nic for crossing one off the list! In no way am I trying to bring back the B-scale, but again, I appreciate and find value in the idea that for whatever reason, this problem has remained unrepeated for so long. Looking further down the list ,one problem that is really starting to stand out is Warpath, in Castle Rocks, ID and as Litz offered no grade, it remains B3.

“B3 would be an objective category signifying climbs that were unrepeated, though attempted. When a B3 was repeated it would drop to a B2 or perhaps even a B1 level.” -John Gill
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20 Responses to “Keymaker, Second Ascent”

  1. tommy caldwell

    14. Oct, 2009

    yeah right ,
    Im sick of everyone taking the grades , like the #$%@#$ HUG ? v11 ,, no way , try v8 boys and this thing looks shit … dare to think for yo sef some time … $#%@#$% @#$@s ,,, #$%@$ #$%@#$s ,,,

  2. Alex

    14. Oct, 2009

    Good job at being second place Nic!
    Just kidding, nice work dude.

  3. sweatpants

    14. Oct, 2009

    yikes. kind of harsh Tommy I think. An impressive send of a tall and difficult boulder. I think it is natural to be unsure of a grade sometimes. I also believe the B3 reference is in direct relation to your blog Jamie as we joked about it after he sent.

  4. B3

    14. Oct, 2009

    Sweatpants, that comment was tongue in cheek, I figured as much.

  5. sockhands

    14. Oct, 2009

    bananna slap. ape city. s. st. vrain canyon. unrepeated.

    i was talking with celo last night and he commented, “yeah it’s hard, way hard; i bet that jemerface couldn’t repeat it.”

    jus’ sayin’, is all

  6. sockhands

    14. Oct, 2009

    also, great leaves shot. is it yours? i dig.

  7. sockhands

    14. Oct, 2009

    and if so, looks like east coast or michigan? not sure of where in colo has huge deciduous (sp) trees in that density.

  8. sweaty

    14. Oct, 2009

    Are you speaking of Tommy’s comment or Nic’s B3 comment?

  9. chad greedy

    14. Oct, 2009

    i believe the “tale of two gabors” is really starting to stand out on the list too.. lets go see someone repeat THAT shit!!! WHUT!!!!

  10. anthony

    14. Oct, 2009

    Wow, kind of a prick thing to say! Had you been drinking Tommy?

  11. nicros/fiveten

    14. Oct, 2009

    The Amateur is now the hardest problem in the midwest.

  12. Dave C

    14. Oct, 2009

    For some reason your pictures are a bit blurry above. Here is a link to some pics of Nic’s send:

    http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wisconsin/devils_lake/devils_lake_bouldering/105937573

    And here is an unblurry one of you sending BS :)

    http://www.mountainproject.com/images/20/43/106442043_large_0c4ba9.jpg

  13. B3

    14. Oct, 2009

    I don’t think Tommy wrote that. It came from NYC, and he is in Yosemite.

  14. B3

    14. Oct, 2009

    Bring it. I had to do the bottom of .15b route at Movement last night on command to appease a surly Gabor.

  15. B3

    14. Oct, 2009

    Although it is routes, wunderkid Adam Ondra understands the value and has led the way by going after unrepeated routes, like Om, Open Air, Papichula etc.

  16. bc

    14. Oct, 2009

    pile

  17. B3

    15. Oct, 2009

    better than Grey Matter?

  18. ToddF

    18. Oct, 2009

    sockhands, banana slap is repeated and yeah it is hard

  19. cardboard_dog

    20. Oct, 2009

    Since Tommy is such a major figure head in today’s climbing community and looked up to by, and influential to, todays treacherous but adorable youth, I think he should be banned from B3 and his sponsorships revoked.
    And given to me.

  20. chad

    17. May, 2011

    R there and other places to boulder in Wisconsin besides devils lake that have granite

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