B3 boulders

Posted on 05. Oct, 2009 by B3 in Articles

Part of the appeal of traveling to a place like South Dakota, for me, is that the area is home to several John Gill problems and the existence of a classic unrepeated problem, King of Town. In regards to Gill, for those who don’t know, he basically invented the activity of modern bouldering here in America, and for me to travel to these out of the way places, it in some way pays homage to what he did for our sport some 50 years ago. Gill made several major contributions to bouldering and was clearly way ahead of his time.

Firstly, Gill introduced dynamic movement.

In the Tetons in 1959, he did the first ascent of the center of the Red Cross Rock. This was an execptionally difficult, short problem and the first significant “dynamic route” in America-if anywhere. Normally climbs were done in a “static” fashion, whereby each move was deliberate and often reversible. Gill was willing to commit himself to physical flight upward, commiting himself in aerial feats where he threw his body free of the rock and upward off a hold.
Pat Ament “Master of Rock” 1992

He also introduced specific training for climbing, particularly in preparation for The Thimble, in South Dakota.

….(he) started to devise ways, around the gym, in which to train for some of the moves he anticipated doing on the Thimble. He squeezed nuts and bolts sticking out of the gym walls to prepare for the nubbins that he would have to squeeze high up on the Thimble. He could do seven regular one-arm pullups, three finger-tip one-arm pullups, and of course his one-finger/one-arm pullup, and he continued to train at these
Pat Ament “Master of Rock” 1992

This is a standard that is matched by almost no climber today. Consistantly, it seems that everyone who saw Gill climb was throughly impressed. He also introduced the use of chalk, for drying the hands, a technique he borrowed from his background in gymnastics.

Another one of the contributions he made was by creating a personal grading scale. The scale consisted of B1, B2, and B3. A B1 problem was one that had moves as hard as the hardest roped climbs of the day. Perhaps the modern translation would be V12 to V13. A B2 problem was one that was harder than the hardest roped climbs of the day, perhaps V14-V15 nowadays. A B3 problem was tried relentlessly, and only climbed once. As soon as it was repeated it dropped back down to B2. Gill’s scale was a sliding scale. In 1969 the scale was defined as such: B1=5.10, in 1977 B1=5.11, and in 1987 B1=5.12. Although the scale is not used anymore, I think there is still some application, and Gill was on to a good idea. The hardest problems aren’t the ones with the largest numbers, but the ones that are seldom repeated. Many people argue that modern problems like Freshly Squeezed and Dark Waters should be given V13, and maybe they should, but if they are then they are some of the most repeated V13s in America. Spinal Twist (in Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT), or Suspension of Disbelief (given V13 by FAist David Graham) are rarely repeated and in fact Suspension has only been repeated once, after a massive effort by Daniel Woods. Clearly these problems are harder than Freshly Squeezed or Dark Waters, whether the numbers indicate that difficulty or not. It is also interesting that the B scale would slide across regions, in that a B3 in Ohio, would probably, but not necessarily, be easier than a B3 in Colorado.

I am trying to compile a list of all of the potentially difficult B3 boulders in America. Clearly something that was done recently (maybe in the last year or so still needs some time). Maybe some of these B3s haven’t been climbed because they are out of the way, or have bad landings, or are actually really, really, difficult.

One of the best examples of such a problem is Dave Graham’s The Story of Two Worlds V15, in Cresciano, CH. Many climbers have done Dreamtime V14, which is on the same boulder. (or Jade V15 for that matter, which has 5 ascents in 3 years). But back to The Story of Two Worlds, a few have repeated the stand start, The Dagger, but in four years no one has been able to repeat Dave’s lower start. One strong climber claimed it was “dabby” and that’s fine, but the longer it goes unrepeated, and the more strong climbers go there and don’t do it, for whatever reason, the more legendary it grows in status. In America that would be a problem like Suspension of Disbelief, in Eldorado Canyon, CO (which I was lucky enough to witness the FA).

So far here is the list. I realize that some information maybe incorrect and I will happily change things as reputable information comes to light. I am looking for input from a knowledgeable community. I have added the suggested grade by the first ascentionist.

The Ill Saint, Pawtuckaway State Park FA David Graham 2000 (V13)
King of Town, Black Hills South Dakota FA Matt Tschol 2007 (V12)
Warpath, Castle Rocks, ID FA Jamie Litz 2007 (V14)
Nuclear War, Master Bedroom, NY Matt Bosley (V14?)
Nuclear Arms, Grandmother Mtn, NC FA James Litz year unknown, grade unknown
Black Crack, Blowing Rock, NC FA James Litz
Flagyl Left, Blowing Rock, NC FA James Litz
Illusion, HP40, AL FA Lee Payne 2003 (V11)
Genetic HP40, AL FA James Litz 1998? (V10)
The Keymaker, Devil’s Lake, WI FA Brian Sandona 2003? (V11) update: repeated by Nic Oklubija
The Amateur, Sawmill Creek Dome, Jim Merli 2003? (V13?)
The Hand, Hueco Tanks, TX FA Daniel Woods (V11)
Lost in the Hood, AR, FA David Graham (V14)
The Stretcher, Flagstaff, CO Jim Holloway
Fingerhut Direct, Joe’s Valley, UT James Litz (V13) update: repeated by Paul Robinson
Copperhead Right, Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT Garth Miller (V13) (although much skepticism remains about whether Miller actually climbed this line)
The Elitist, Tum Tum, WA FA Johnny Goicoechea 2007 (V13)
Zazen, Squamish, BC FA Harry Robertson 2003 (V13)
The Tale of Two Gabors, Hueco Tanks, TX FA Gabor Szekely (V12) Tried by Woods, Graham and Nicole.
Ambrosia, Bishop, CA FAKevin Jorgeson Although this was climbed with out a rope, it clearly blurs the line between bouldering and free-soloing.
The Singularity, Squamish, BC FA Tim Clifford 2007 (V14) although not in America

I left Meathook at Horsetooth Reservoir off the list, as it was repeated by Dave Twinam, with a different sequence than Jim Holloway. Slapshot, the other classic Holloway problem has broken and was re-glued and is unclimbable in its current state.

For more on Gill and he legacy, I highly recommend reading John Gill:Master of Rock, by Pat Ament, which documents Gill’s exploits.

Tags: B3, Bouldering, John Gill, unrepeated problems

62 Responses to “B3 boulders”

chuffer

05. Oct, 2009

Holloway’s The Stretcher on Flagstaff Mountain remains unrepeated to the best of my knowledge. Lots of easy moves into a hard section culminating with a move requiring the wingspan of an albatross.

Have no idea how hard it will be, but it’s harder than it was when originally done in 1976.
B3

05. Oct, 2009

Chip, would you provide directions? thanks.
Justin

05. Oct, 2009

What about Zazen in Squamish? Harry Robertson FA.
sweatpants

05. Oct, 2009

the keymaker V11 @ Devils Lake. You climbed on the first half of this thing when you were on Beutiful Soup. I’ve not heard of anyone repeating this thing. F.A. Brian Sandona
B3

05. Oct, 2009

thanks guys, I hope more come out of the wood work! @sweatpants, duh, how coud I forget!
sweatpants

05. Oct, 2009

haha. Let me know when you come thru the next time. It would be great to see ya. Might want to make it soon as there seems to be projects being found on a daily basis out there.
chuffer

05. Oct, 2009

Start low and left on Pratt’s Rock (today there is an obvious sds) and traverse right across Pratt’s Rock and The Smith Overhang without using the lip until established on Crystal Corner, then top out. May not be cutting edge hard, but unrepeated by Holloways’s Flagstaff Mountain contemporaries in the 1970′s and 1980′s and so obscure it has pretty much been forgotten.

According to your proposed 5 star system, this problem would unquestionably receive 0 stars. Send me an e-mail if you venture up to try it in the dead of winter with nothing better to do and let me know what you think about the grade.
wyclimber

05. Oct, 2009

Notice a reoccurring theme in your list? Its James/Jamie Litz. If you could see what he pulled off this summer in Ten sleep with a rope, you would be blown away. I doubt General Litzenheimer or Master of the Universe will be repeated anytime soon (does the B3 designation translate to rope climbing – R3??). Also Genetic is no longer the same climb as when Litz sent it. A key hold broke and though it may still go it is now a different beast altogether.
stephen

05. Oct, 2009

interested in the skepticism around the Garth Miller problems in LCC… what’s the reason for doubting?
B3

05. Oct, 2009

I don’t think anyone has ever questioned his strength, but I have heard some SLC climbers question this ascent. I heard that Litz tired it and said it wouldn’t go? It would be great if someone more knowledgeable would chime in.
DaveH

05. Oct, 2009

I’m sure there is more crazy stuff done unrepeated in Squamish (like Tim Doyle doing Viper 60 times in one hour). McColl did Velco Low (V13) but perhaps it is too new.

The Proposal into tension extension by Tim Doyle?
B3

05. Oct, 2009

I don’t think random feats of strength (like climbing a V5 60 times are going to make the list) Sean McColl did the second ascent of Velcro Low, so that dropped to B2. I don’t know of this link up you speak of. Does anyone know that this has been done, or what other significant problems Tim has done? Has anyone sat down with him? I know he “doesn’t care” but it would be nice to know, problems like Velcro low are great additions.
Jeremiah Johnson

05. Oct, 2009

The Ill Saint gets no attention because it’s kind of an unaesthetic problem. It’s no doubt very hard (some of the smallest holds I’ve ever seen), but I think that most people who are strong enough to climb have preferred so far to spend their skin and energy on the more attractive hard lines at Pawtuckaway.
DaveH

05. Oct, 2009

Yeah, the Viper thing wasn’t meant to make the list Jamie. Cool though none the less

I totally forgot that Sean’s ascent of Velcro Low was the second ascent.

Tim has told me that he has done The proposal into Tension Extension, but I’ve never had a chance to sit with him and talk about it in detail / other climbs.

It would be so nice to know all the stuff he’s done.
sockhands

05. Oct, 2009

THE ***VERY BEST*** B3 PROBLEMS IN THE UNIVERSE:

dark horse in the berthoud cave at chosslewood. FA jade whitney. (this is jade’s nickname, which was affixed to the problem, though i do not believe jade named it).

unfrozen caveman lawyer. FA raether. enduro route through berthoud cave in chosslewood.

some bloodsport cave stuff by chuck fryberger, chozzlewood canyon.

the mangler. punani area, chozzlewood canyon. marcelo montalva. v7 – 12.

ewoks aren’t from endor. FA hayden miller. newlin. v6
three barrel haai. FA das bpc. newlin. v8.

pretentious inventor… FA silvan. newlin v9.

bananna slap. FA marcelo montalva. ape city/s. st. vrain canyon. v7-11.

the left version of midnight express, boulder canyon? FA limey ty.

bennett’s red feather rig.

45% of all cameron cross problems.

61% of all will lemaire problems.

92% of shulte’s various obscure compression rigs.

the phoenix at the niagara glen??? FA jeremy smith. a few folks did a left variation of this, but i think the true rig may be unrepeated.

elephant roof, niagara glen. jeremy smith.

the poopsmith. black hills, south dakota.

73% of josh dreher’s new problems in sodak.

37% of davin bagofdoughnuts’ problems in the state of wyoming.

the low start of PREEMPTIVE STRIKE, rmnp. (not the matched start, which is undone obviously).

THE DARK CRYSTAL. WADERLAND. WADE.

KILLING SEASON. CCC. WADE.

illegally mundane and trolling for mank. flagstaff mountain. each unrepeated in their true form, despite a rampant love for traverses and eliminates up there.

man spanner. black hole, morrison. chuck fryberger.

omg i can go on forever.
sidepull

05. Oct, 2009

Are we using “America” the way people do in South America – refering to both continents? Or do you mean the US. If so, Squamish is probably off the list.

If it’s not, what about Tim Clifford’s test piece in Squamish – Round Room, or something like that?

Also, what about that cool climb that Sharma did on Rampage out by Lake Tahoe?

Finally, as someone that grew up in SLC and cut my teeth in LLC, I’ve never heard doubts about Garth’s send. I’m not trying to be definitive (in fact, I’ll start a thread on utahclimbers.com just to see what pops up), I’m just saying that reading that here was news to me.
JamesO

05. Oct, 2009

I thought King of Town was suggested as V14?
Andy Mann

05. Oct, 2009

Cool list Jamie. Thanks. BTW, I watched Nalle try ‘Tale of Two Gabors’ for about 2 hours without a send. Proud. Wilder’s “Firstborn”, in the Flatirons, suggested V11, (prolly much harder), remains unrepeated as well. Fish out of Water (V12), Pierson Park – unrepeated. Chris Shulte has a few hard unrepeated 8Bs as well eh? Anyway, totally agree about Suspension, likely a V15. I’ve spent about 12 days with Daniel, Paul, and Ty under the rig and it looks mind numbingly hard. Sharma didn’t have much luck either. It is good to remember that Dave had just sent his two V15s in Switzerland when he showed up and unlocked it. We filmed Daniel’s ascent for RMH and it pretty much looks like the hardest thing he had ever linked together. Cheers!
Andy Mann

05. Oct, 2009

Mr. Cameron Cross’s “Beckoning Silence” aka “The White Pearl Project”, in the Poudre, could very well be the most unrepeatable boulder in Colorado IMHO. B3 status for sure.
B3

05. Oct, 2009

Andy, I agree, great problem!
B3

05. Oct, 2009

@Andy Most of the problems you mention are fairly new and it seems like when the strong kids finally get around to repeating this stuff it has been downgraded.
B3

05. Oct, 2009

@ James I believe that was joke James. Not everything on 8a is factual, as you know.
B3

05. Oct, 2009

@sidepull It’s hard not to include Squamish as it is so close and on so many American climbers radars. The Round Room project was climbed by Tim Clifford and called The Singularity and it is on the list. The Ashtray is I think the problem you are referring to that Sharma climbed near Tahoe and that has been repeated by Herman Fiessner, Randy Puro, Joel Zerr and probably others.
B3

05. Oct, 2009

@Jaeger If your ridiculousness was ever in question, it certainly is no longer.
Davin

05. Oct, 2009

Jamie,

We have a bunch of stuff in wyoming that hasen’t seen repeats, both because of difficulty and more likely from low populations of strong climbers. BJ Tilden, Rio Rose, Guili Zavaschi, Colby Frontiera (sp?), others and myself all have some. Other strong climbers have added them on travels through the state too (Andy Reather, Mo from England, and I’m sure others). Come up and turn them into B2 so we can have an even longer list of those.

lots of good stuff up here!

Davin
Jay

05. Oct, 2009

About lcc:
Litzs does not “really” climb here. He has done a few problems but largly ignores the place. Just because he has tried it and not succeded on it means little. people have tried it and linked all but the first move.
J
DaveH

05. Oct, 2009

@sockhands: I heard that Sonnie Trotter climbed The Phoenix at least. I believe that last season a hold broke. Do not know the status.

Not sure about elephant roof but it is only V10 supposedly right, so i doubt it is B3.
matt

05. Oct, 2009

i think there are quite a few 13-14′s in the NE that have been overlooked…
Bearded J

06. Oct, 2009

Dave and Sockhands, The Phoenix is most definitely broken, undercling is gone. Problem still may go, Keith MacKay was making some links in the spring and may do it this fall, potentially V12+. Elephant roof currently has a large tree residing on top of it and has not been tried in part due to the tree and in part due to the completely ridiculous wing span, problem is only rated V8/9, but never heard of a repeat.
sidepull

06. Oct, 2009

Here’s the thread I started on utahclimbers.com about Copperhead Right. MB (Mike Beck) provides some interesting insight and history. You’ll note that I think it’s a stellar line and, if Garth didn’t climb it, it would be a plumb FA.

http://www.utahclimbers.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3024&p=35849#p35849
B3

06. Oct, 2009

i am just going to repost what Mike wrote, as this is the kind of information I was looking for. I hope he doesn’t mind.

“The skepticism comes from a few things:
1) no one ever saw garth do Cheech, Copperhead sit, Super G, or Copperhead right, and it was warm when he was there (not hot though) and people were climbing up there;
2) he said he flashed/onsighted Cannibals Direct 14a, but could not produce a belayer and no one saw it despite Hell being a popular crag during that time;
3) he said he did super tweak but T. Wagner was up there the day he was there and said he did not do it;
4) he was kind of fucked up on drugs when he was around here.
That being said, the counter argument exists:
1) Garth was incredibly strong, particularly on fingery things, he could do multiple V12+ problems on any woody in town;
2) I saw him “almost” flash shingles and copperhead, that is, he barely missed then got right back on and easily fired them;
3) I saw him do the moves on Cheech;
4) I saw him do a lot of hardest things in Hueco at the time, pretty quickly;
5) he could have lied about doing other things, like Bully (he never did it) or Ice Cream (never did it)

I have always been inclined to believe him, as he thought Cheech and Copperhead Right were the hardest things he had done at the time (and are both feasible), and said both took him 6-8 days (full monty V12/13 and Crown of Aragorn V13 each took him 2-3 days). One issue you have with both of these problems that makes them hard to repeat is they both are kind of miserable, they have terrible small holds, and are condition-dependent. No really good climbers have really put any effort into either of them, again because they are kind of miserable.
That is where the doubt comes from, I guess the best way would be to ask Garth and confirm it with him.” Mike Beck
B3

06. Oct, 2009

Please list them! I would love to hear what they were. I was unaware that there were quite a few V13s and V14s in the NE.
DB

06. Oct, 2009

I find it interesting that about half of these problems are James Litz FA
Andy

06. Oct, 2009

geez…this list would be huge if ya added NY. B3′s are cool in this state. We got a lots. Too many to list
campusmang

06. Oct, 2009

the rock climbing community is so nice.
B3

06. Oct, 2009

Huge? 100 problems? 500 problems? If you have a list of such hard boulders I would love to see it. Please share!
Andy

06. Oct, 2009

But seriously, it seems like the idea of a “B3″ problem is less of a big deal in the NE. There are not enough climbers out here where a new problem gets held up to the test. And many have long been forgotten about, attemtped and completed once and then never again. I got bored once and made a list of unrepeated problems in the gunks, and Josh made one of westchester county, and both had twice the amount on your list….The reason for this is still unclear….Although, to be fair, unrepeated and never again attempted is very different from what happens with say, suspension of disbelief

and as an aside, not that I am advocating freshly or dark waters are V13′s, but to say that they cant be V13 because they are the most often repeated doesnt make sense. Because there has to be one that gets that honor while still holding the grade….
Andy

06. Oct, 2009

the thing is, many would not perceive some of the unrepeated problems as “hard”. Sure, there are plenty of unrepeated 11′s or 12′s, but then there are many more that are 9′s and 10′s, and maybe even 7′s and 8′s that are just plain frightening. Such a list might be a bore…
Andy

06. Oct, 2009

maybe the unrepeated V13 or V14′s would be cool enough…
Philip

06. Oct, 2009

Boz did another sick climb on the Vapor Lock roof that I don’t think anyone really knows about. I don’t know exactly how it goes but I know it’s a really long link-up. He called it Perpetual Motion and thinks it’s harder than Nuclear War.
B3

06. Oct, 2009

” not that I am advocating freshly or dark waters are V13’s, but to say that they cant be V13 because they are the most often repeated doesnt make sense. Because there has to be one that gets that honor while still holding the grade…”

Here is what i wrote.

“Many people argue that modern problems like Freshly Squeezed and Dark Waters should be given V13, and maybe they should, but if they are then they are some of the most repeated V13s in America. Spinal Twist (in Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT), or Suspension of Disbelief (given V13 by FAist David Graham) are rarely repeated and in fact Suspension has only been repeated once, after a massive effort by Daniel Woods. Clearly these problems are harder than Freshly Squeezed or Dark Waters, whether the numbers indicate that difficulty or not.” I never said they can’t be V13.
I agree that some problems should be low in the grade, or better put that each grade has a range, but even so, it doesn’t change the fact that you are scoring 13 points with much less effort on DW and FS than you are on SOD and ST. And if climbers were less concerned with big numbers I think it would become apparent which problems were actually really hard.
B3

06. Oct, 2009

@phillip Is Bosley’s problem harder or different than Ronnie Jenkins The Whole Shebang? anyone?
TK

06. Oct, 2009

I’m not aware of any repeats of

Vision , Whiskey Gulch, MT, Alek Tkach (V11)

http://whiskeygulch.50webs.com/Problems/Pages/inertia.htm

I also want to say

Montana Beef, Cattle Pond, MT, BJ Tilden (V11)
Chris T.

06. Oct, 2009

Niagara Glen-
The Phoenix had several sends in it’s original form (before undercling hold broke)… but how about The Crucifix?

http://www.glenbouldering.com/guide-spec.php3?+493

can’t say i recall anyone ever repeating this… i believe it took Simon 4+ days of work. Pretty sick climb!
bearded J

06. Oct, 2009

Yeah I don’t believe the Crucifix ever got a second before the massive flake came off, ridiculously hard now!
Andy

07. Oct, 2009

Yes the Crucifix got a second. For sure.
JE: Totally agree with what you wrote re: V13
And yes Boz’ line is quite a bit harder than Jenkins’ whole shebang
Andy

07. Oct, 2009

Bosleys problem starts on tavalin shaft, climbs that until part way out torpedo, reaches underneath to the honeycomb start, then does some very very hard reverse moves and finishes whole shebang.
sock hands

07. Oct, 2009

i thought salo did the crucifix?

my comments above, while both ridiculous and completely accurate, are much in line with andy’s: there are SHITTONS of unrepeated problems. some are worthy, some are not.

i just have to propagate notions of hateB whenever i get a chance. there really is nothing on this planet as vile as hard climbing.
Nathan

07. Oct, 2009

boz’s send on the laurel roof went like this Tavilin Shaft (V12) into Honeycomb (V10 but you actualy go backwards through the crux so maybe harder) into Vaporlock with the whole shabang finish. Having climbed there a lot this is a lot of feet of zero degree roof for anyone.
kooter

08. Oct, 2009

andy sounds hot.