Posted on 20. Sep, 2009 by in RMNP

Fall is coming, particularly in the high country of RMNP. It’s a great time to be outside, as the days are dry and still fairly long, and the evenings are cool, clear and windy. Last week I found a stellar project in Upper Chaos Canyon.
IMG_8901Looking into Upper Chaos and the summit of Otis Peak.
It’s really amazing that such classics are still to be climbed and we immediately got the brushes out, cleaned up the holds and got to work. The holds are really unique on this one and much of the hard climbing revolves around a toe hooking rail feature. It took us a while to figure out the beta that would work. I put up a great stand start, which begins on a nice left hand edge and a right hand gaston crimp and am calling this Mirkwood V10. It seems to be a tricky one, deceptively more difficult than it appears. Phil worked out the moves on the lower section and I did all the moves as well.

The movement on the lower section is some of the most interesting movement I have seen in a while. Amazing flat edges, holding tension with the toehooks. Very psyched on the new problem and when the low start is complete it will be one of the best problems in Chaos. Unfortunately, I don’t think the photos do it the justice it deserves, but I think this will be a popular problem in years to come. Check out the pics.
IMG_8957Mirkwood V10 FA
IMG_8945Phil Schaal, in top form after his send of Jade, works the moves on the project low start.
IMG_8980Here Rylan Marshall has just done the first move, and is setting up for a difficult match.

2 Responses to “RMNP”

  1. campusmang

    21. Sep, 2009

    nice spot aaron H

    fyi, aaron represents GL 2

  2. campusman

    21. Sep, 2009

    if someone were to ask me, what is the ultimate climbers stretch? I would say definitely stretching the infraspinatus muscles are the ultimate climbers stretch.

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