RMNP Upper Chaos

RMNP Upper Chaos

Posted on 02. Sep, 2009 by in News

Saturday I got out for the first time in a while and I went to Upper Chaos. I haven’t climbed very much since South Africa, but I’d like to build some fitness in for the cooler temps in the fall. I was keen on some easier things.
Justin Jaeger and I warmed up and climbed The Ladybug Traverse, which heads right from the starting holds of the Ladybug, this was given V9, but we felt V8 was more appropriate.
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It was a pretty mellow day and afterwards we hiked over near Eternia to an obscure problem called Mimicking Victory V8, which was established by Adam Osterhoff circa 2002. This is a great problem on the El Cap Boulder. Here are some pictures.

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We also climbed Future Relic V9, which starts a few moves lower and adds some punch.
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It was a fairly uneventful day, but it’s always great to get up in the mountains. Just another day in the life.

13 Responses to “RMNP Upper Chaos”

  1. campusman

    02. Sep, 2009

    sick!!!!!

  2. das bpc owns the earth

    02. Sep, 2009

    wha what? no pictures of the ULTRAGNAR NEO-CLASSIC: hateB?

    dissappointing!

  3. campusman

    02. Sep, 2009

    i pwn u

  4. cameron

    03. Sep, 2009

    where is the lady bug in relation to the meadow boulder or pterodactyl please?
    also where is ladybug in relation to eternia?
    thanks!

  5. campusmang

    04. Sep, 2009

    i havent rested more than a week in over 2 yrs now. germ free!!!!
    a week off is for never recovery

    2 weeks off is for serious injuries and puts you out of shape cardiovascular wise. ( 2 weeks is not for the typical climbing aches that you should climb through or lift some light free weights and or massage). i hate when stretching wont cure the problem. there is a technique that is the opposite of stretching where you make the tendon attachments closer together making the muscle shorter, not lengthened. this works good for a lot of aches. the muscle cramps up and slowly goes into place.

  6. campusmang

    04. Sep, 2009

    taking two weeks off is good for rock climbers, especially boulder’ers cuz it tweaks your body so much. thats why you are as good as u r jamie, because u rest well. for someone that started climbing at the age you did, u r sick!!! you would be the best in the world if you started climbing when you were 18, there is no doubt. im going to gl right now

  7. sock hands

    04. Sep, 2009

    ladybug is directly down towards lake haiyahahaha (sp) from eternia a substantial distance and is thusly not really near eternia at all save for being in upper chaos.

    flipside of this coin for you, lil feller, is that ladybug is very close to pterodactyl. in fact it is a legitimate stone’s throw down-canyon.

    walk down canyon from pterodactyl, curving very slightly right like a scott norwood field goal in the bills’ first superbowl. you will encounter a chalky not so cool block down and left, then a larger wall straight ahead, facing you. the face is “the not bacon wall” v5-6. there is a deep cave on its right side. there’s a great jug haul to scary sloping hand jam problem that ascends it. none of us have had the gumption (i.e. balls) to send it yet,but it has been done. facing that is what i callled “hateB” which eliminates the right arete…. start crouching and do a huge wind mill move up to a layback/pinch, then top er out w/o the arete.

    at the bottom side of the not bacon wall lies ladybug, which ascends from an obvious shelf straight up some crimps and gaston holds to a somewhat disconcerting mantle.

    ladybug traverse, which i feel has very good moves as well as ladybug, starts the same and busts right. obvious.

    also, what we are calling the “otis traverse” sits hidden a tier above the not bacon wall in the as-the-crow-flies direction of pterodactyl.

    i hope this helps.

    my stream of consciousness is sometimes cloudy after a week of heavy drinking and/or vitimin C.

  8. campusman

    05. Sep, 2009

    *yawns* vitamin C is essential but we don’t need to focus on that vitamin so much. The body only needs about half a cup of OJ’s worth per day.
    Alcohol is not essential, but 3 oz of red wine shows to give some health benefits. It has antioxidants oooooooooo.
    We need to focus on foods that raise our pH levels, and give more attention to sugar. First it was low fat, now its high protein?????!!!!!!SERIOUSLY!!!???!!! Eat your complex carbohydrates!

    http://www.weightlossforall.com/complex-carbs.htm

    If you are a skinny climber, all you practically need is one can of tuna (20g) for a protein. Eating too much causes your body to store the unneeded amount as F A T!

  9. campusman

    05. Sep, 2009

    vitamin C is essential but we don’t need to focus on that vitamin so much. The body only needs about half a cup of OJ’s worth per day.
    Alcohol is not essential, but 3 oz of red wine shows to give some health benefits. It has antioxidants oooooooooo.
    We need to focus on foods that raise our pH levels, and give more attention to sugar. First it was low fat, now its high protein??Eat your complex carbohydrates! I cant stress it enough for people that exercise!
    http://www.weightlossforall.com/complex-carbs.htm
    If you do not have sugar available, you are burning muscle for energy. If you are a skinny climber with burned out muscles, all you practically need is one can of tuna (20g) for protein. Eating too much protein causes your body to store the unneeded amount as fat. Eat your carbs. I don’t care if they are complex or not, eat your carbs.

  10. campusman

    06. Sep, 2009

    i cant stress it enough, eat your complex carbs!

  11. dr campus

    06. Sep, 2009

    Campusman,

    I applaud your effort but your info stated above is a bit incorrect:
    -“we need foods that raise our pH levels”
    In a healthy individual any change in blood pH due to food or any other cause is HIGHLY buffered by the bicarbonate buffering system system in order to maintain the bodies optimal pH of 7.35-7.45 and maintain enzymatic function. Although you indirectly bring up the very interesting point that pH does have an effect on neuronal function; increases in pH around neurons (not blood but for example CSF) increase neuronal excitability. Hence one reason you may hallucinate when acutely exposed to high altitudes [It takes a few steps to get from increased altitude to hallucination but if your’re interested I’d love to share]. Again though I doubt food consumption can cause this since blood pH, which is quickly returned to optimal baselines, is further filtered into CSF which has an extremely tightly regulated pH to allow for proper brain function.
    -“If you are a skinny climber, all you practically need is one can of tuna (20g) for a protein”
    A sedentary individual needs a little less in grams of protein/day than the number of kilograms they weigh. In fact the RDA by webmd.com is 0.8g protein/day for every kg of body weight …for example a 65kg person needs 52g of protein/day (65kg X 0.8g protein/kg body weight= 52 g protein). Add on the fact that your 25kg climber (based on the 20g protein diet and reversing the sedentary recommendations) actually climbs and is active and even this person (who weighs the 44 lbs of a small child) will need even more protein to sustain their working muscles. Given your “skinny climber” is an estimated 130 pounds (59kg) they need about 47 g protein/day to maintain themselves on the days they sit on the couch! Although I agree the literature says excess protein can lead to diseases like cancer you better tell your anorexic friend to eat a bit more if they want to make it out of bed, much less climb pictured moderates. Interesting side note- lack of adequate protein could also be a cause of sockhand’s cloudy mind.

    Furthermore, sockhands consciousness is mostly likely cloudy due to the admitted heavy drinking and as campusman said not excess vitamin C consumption. Vitamin C is water soluble so any excess amount will be quickly excreted in his urine. Also, I don’t think vitamin C would impair conscious in a negative way since it helps in the synthesis of catecholamines in the brain, an effect that would most likely BOOST cognitive function and allow you to avoid the cup-o-Joe tomorrow morning.

    Final point, very little extra protein is converted to fat since it must be deaminated first, it is much more common for excess carbohydrate to be stored as fat if not used itself in a timely manner. Glad you’re getting your complex carbs and small amount of red wine! By the way fat is your friend when you’re doing those CO approaches…unless you’re literally sprinting up to chaos.

  12. campusman

    07. Sep, 2009

    I should have been more clear with what I was saying. my point on pH levels was mostly about cancer.
    cancer cannot live in a body with healthy ph levels 7.4. Natural chemotherapy (Cesium & Rubidium) raises our pH to about 7.6. There are foods like tomatoes and others we can do the same thing with, but we need to know that raising our pH lowers potassium levels. That is easily fixed with milk.
    my point about protein was said to be about the amount a climber needs which doesn’t make sense because all our bodies are different. thanks for making it more clear for those who do not know the amount of protein we need depends on our body size. I did knot that. You obviously know a lot about nutrition. Wow. I only studied massage therapy and psychology.

  13. campusman

    07. Sep, 2009

    “carbohydrate to be stored as fat if not used itself in a timely manner” – digestion takes about 18 minutes depending on our metabolic rate and if we ate unsaturated fat. Fat helps the process to go faster and smoother. I’m sure you knew this info also.
    I recently read about eating too much vitamin C causes you to just piss it out, and its just funny how much attention that vitamin is given when there is so many more things to be said.

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