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Jade 5th Ascent

Posted on 26. Aug, 2009 by in News

Phill Schaal has made the stunning 5th ascent of Jade V15 in Rocky Mountain National Park. Details are scarce but it has been confirmed! Well done!!
Phil tore his way through almost all of the classic testpieces last year, Nuthin’ but Sunshine, Freaks of the Industry, The Automator.

41 Responses to “Jade 5th Ascent”

  1. hayden

    26. Aug, 2009

    am i correct in saying this is this the most repeated v15 in the world?

  2. Chuck

    26. Aug, 2009

    Do you ever get tired of other sites copy-and-pasting your news items and then getting the traffic (read: ad revenue) based on your good reporting?

    I sure do. I would propose that we start inserting ficticious news stories on our blogs and then removing them as soon as the rip-off sites copy them. Sound like a plan?

  3. […] taking some time to get back into shape, Phil Schaal has done the 5th ascent of Jade (V15) in Upper Chaos Canyon, […]

  4. B3

    26. Aug, 2009

    Hayden, you are correct. Chuck, the internet is free information, they are welcome to post what ever they like off my site, as long as they provide a link. So to answer your question, no it doesn’t bother me.

  5. mervo

    26. Aug, 2009

    Fear not Hayden, like everything else in the park else it’ll be downgraded to V9.

  6. peter b

    26. Aug, 2009

    Hayden’s point is a good one. Is there a consensus emerging that Jade is hard V14? Should Suspension of Disbelief be reconsidered?

  7. B3

    26. Aug, 2009

    You bring up a good point. Numbers are irrelevant, and Suspension of Disbelief is the hardest problem based on repeats. Daniel, Paul, Dave etc are the ones who need to decide. They are the leaders so it’s up to them. Again, Daniel is the most powerful, but he hasn’t spent 20 or 30 days on something to truly show that power. There is a project to the left of Jade that is at least as hard. There were also allegations of chipping, but I think the holds have simply received more attention and have been brushed (with a nylon brush) perhaps they are slightly bigger but it seems negligable. I do not think anything on Jade has been chipped.
    Also, Jade is way harder than standard V14s like Dreamtime and New Baseline (which Daniel did in a day) Perhaps the reality is that Jade is V15 but things can just get that much harder. From what I have heard, In Search of Time Lost in Magic Wood is the real deal.

  8. Name (required)

    27. Aug, 2009

    I think you should all come to visit in Finland and taste our grading. Finnish V13 are V15 all over the world, I’d say inlfation and too mutch hype.

  9. C

    27. Aug, 2009

    I think its safe to say Jade is hard as shit and all of the children running around Colorado are pretty much strong as hell. Nice work Phil, crush them shits.

  10. wade

    27. Aug, 2009

    I think that Jade might need a down grade, I have not sent this boulder, but I have done all the moves and realistically in my mind I feel that Jade could be hard v13, I could be wrong.

  11. D

    27. Aug, 2009

    @ the Finnish hardman: “Syödä säkki”

  12. chut

    27. Aug, 2009

    Wade your a lyer! U didn’t do the move. where is the video? punk

  13. brian camp

    27. Aug, 2009

    you should just do that shit wade

  14. The Truth

    27. Aug, 2009

    jade has anyone seen you do the move?… I call bull shit.

    this must be like the “dark crystal” (hard v13)

    did anyone see you do that?

  15. THe Truth

    27. Aug, 2009

    oh, I am sorry.. Wade “the jade” David. not Jade.

  16. campusmang

    27. Aug, 2009

    the moves themselves are not all that hard, you people should know that linking it up is the hard part.

    have trust in someone that says they did something
    unless they have lied before.

    downgrading is for people that don’t have the first ascent because they didn’t do half of the actual work. fa’s are harder.

  17. mike rathke

    27. Aug, 2009

    credit to dave graham

  18. paul enis

    27. Aug, 2009

    CHUT UP

  19. the whole trith

    27. Aug, 2009

    Wade you didnt do the move on jade, you didnt do the dark crystal you have nothing on video you didnt do grey matter y

  20. The Truth

    27. Aug, 2009

    Campusman,
    1.)Do you know anything about this boulder problem? They do not call it “the move” because it is a link issue…. it is one hard move.

    2.) I would not call someone out unless they have had a shady past…

    3.) NO ONE HAS DOWNGRADED THIS BOULDER… it is a discussion being had by a bunch of punts online whom which most of us have not even tried this problem and/or will never do (wade included).

    4.) How is the Grand Ledge? Stay in Michigan.

  21. campusman

    27. Aug, 2009

    Justin, I stand strong.

    1. the move is not that hard, linking it up is hard.

    2. thanks for re uttering what i just said

    3. wade david wants to downgrade it to v13, my point about fa’s is perfect

    4. you should know about grand ledge, you have seen the bombproof pictures…would you like more?

    5. thanks for the attention, you are weak, jamie crushed you at the wyoming comp, flashing 3 v7’s. you cant do that. sit down

  22. paul enis

    28. Aug, 2009

    campusman you are a @#$%@#ing idiot

  23. campusmang

    28. Aug, 2009

    so what does that make you, because at least i am somebody

    if worked on it long enough I could send that moss too

  24. wade

    28. Aug, 2009

    All you guys that have slandered me, need to get a life. What do you care what I have sent? it’s my personal accomplishment, not yours. Honestly what are any of you going to do about what your stating? mostly likely nothing, because it’s not true. Peace.

  25. campusmang

    28. Aug, 2009

    wade i honestly believed u

  26. Couple of things

    28. Aug, 2009

    1) Nalle had a Jade-simulator back at home so he had practised “the move” to some lengths before coming to states

    2) Finnish V13 are not V15, that’s just being silly, sure, Finnish grading is hard, harder than Fontainebleau but let’s not be silly. Finland only has a handful of V13s anyway of which majority has been opened by Nalle

  27. sickness

    29. Aug, 2009

    Justin, i was kidding, its not moss, its green lichen

  28. The Truth

    29. Aug, 2009

    WADE,
    It is important to me because you are suggesting that a v15 is v13. You are also stating that you have done all the moves, this is false. I am not trying to slander and you can easily shut me up by doing the move on video, or have someone vouch for you.

    I do not care what you have done just that you have made bold claims and I am calling your bluff.

    So, Wade, Show your cards and climb the boulder (on video).

  29. The Truth

    29. Aug, 2009

    Another point is, Phill had a amazing day and has broken into new levels. This discussion has left that point and taken away from his phenomenal ascent.

    Good Job Phill, you made quick work of a very hard boulder problem and you are a world class climber.

  30. wade

    29. Aug, 2009

    You got it! “The Truth”, I’m hopefully going this tuesday with or without someone, and i’ll shoot video off my canon G10 point and shoot. i’ll post updates on my blog, link coming soon…..

    I’ll make sure I do the move on video, if I don’t do the problem. How many times would you like to see me do the move? I can take tallies? can’t promise anymore than 1. Keep in mind that I have lost 15 pounds since the last time I was on it a few months ago.

  31. Denada

    29. Aug, 2009

    briefly climbed with this guy last year in the park, the guy just doesnt give up, good work beast!

  32. Tommy

    29. Aug, 2009

    The only people that are allowed to discuss whether or not Jade deserves to be downgraded are the peeps who have sent…all other opinions are completely superfluous.
    The Truth has the right idea – Good job Phil. You’re a beast.

  33. campusmang

    30. Aug, 2009

    capiche

  34. The Truth

    03. Sep, 2009

    YOU COULD HEAR A PIN DROP IN HERE….

    NO one has mentioned Wades day of redemption has come and gone with NO video to show what we have all been waiting for.

    So Wade, Where is the video? How did the move feel?

  35. peter

    04. Sep, 2009

    Let me get this straight: The best reason you could come up with as to why it matters whether or not Wade is lying is that he suggested that a v15 might be a v13?

    That matters? At all? Really, get a life. Or take your discussions over to 8a where the numbers rule.

  36. campusman

    09. Sep, 2009

    numbers rule everywhere, its just something you gotta accept. So just because some chemical/plant growth hormone addicts Do Not Understand numbers, does not mean we have to follow The Idiocy, and The Lies.

    ratings are ratings are ratings for a reason. they are awesome, prove difficulty and skill for climbers that send and fall. we know they have nothing to deal with how awesome the geology is! that is obvious. Crack heads.

  37. Anus_a

    10. Sep, 2009

    I can eat säkki, but still you should all realy come to finland and taste our northern granite. I have seen though climbers trying 7c boulders here in Finland but they have totally sucked. Theyr normal level in europe and america is 8A-8A+. So it’s really intresting how they couldn’t do 7c problem. I wonder whye…..

  38. sam

    11. Sep, 2009

    too bad no one cares about finland.

  39. campusmang

    21. Sep, 2009

    felsic granite with steep ratings

    yummy in my tummy

  40. Tye Watkin

    05. Jan, 2010

    It’s not really possible to judge how hard a climb is until you’ve actually done it. Lots of things “feel” easy when your only doing moves, or sections.. different story on link.

    I wish people would stop downgrading things they have not done, and stop talking #$%# on people they don’t know.

    Jade is one of the most repeated V15’s in the world because of it’s location. There are a lot of strong people in CO, and those such as Nalle make it a destination due to all the good climbing in addition to Jade.

  41. Adam M

    27. May, 2010

    Wow. I just read this post for the first time now.

    I have third graders more mature than a bunch of you…jebus

    Nice work Phil, that spike takes some nasty crimpin skills.

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