Posted on 13. Aug, 2009 by in News

After three great days of sending, it was almost perfect that it rained all day the following two days. I was tired and it was awesome to get caught up on some reading and writing. There were always threats that the weather could turn sour or 5 or six days at a time, and in fact one area is known as the 8 Day Rain. These would be the only two wet days we had and after spending so much time and money on the trip, it’s awesome to have such perfect weather.

IMG_7217The Fortress from Pakhuis Pass

It rained all day, something you don’t see too often in Colorado and it made me miss Michigan. After the weather cleared, (and to my surprise) there was a dusting of snow on the highest points of the Cederberg, I was psyched to give another go at The Vice.
The temperature was crisp and the was a nice breeze. I warmed up at The Roadcrew on an amazing V10 called Tomorrow I’ll be Gone. Conditions were the best they had been the entire trip. I crimped my way up through the crux but didn’t commit to the upper part. Chuck had mentioned he wanted to film this one so I was ok with leaving it, thinking I could repeat it fairly easily.

IMG_7227Kevin Cuckovich on Tomorrow I’ll be Gone V10

IMG_7721Kevin Jorgeson on Tomorrow I’ll be Gone V10

On the way from The Roadcrew to The Fortress is one of the best V8s in the world, The Cedar Spine. This is a Fred Nicole FA. It has a fairly obvious stand start (there is an obvious sit-start as well), it is an obvious line, it has perfect rock and a flat landing flat landing. Clearly four stars. It’s fairly tall, but with a plethora of pads and a bunch of motivated Americans, this seemed to be the time to go for it. It took me a couple goes to muster up the courage, but I did and excitedly topped out. This is an absolutely spectacular problem. This is the best V8 I have ever done. I’ll let the pictures say the rest.
IMG_7236Cedar Spine V8
Here is another angle of this classic boulder.
Afterwords, feeling confident, I walked the 5 minutes over to The Vice. Conditions were perfect and I really threw myself at it, knowing that time was running out and I felt good. I tried as hard as I could, and on my best effort I fell off the last hard move. A bit frustrating, but I had such a good trip up to this point it was hard to be disappointed. I ran into Olivier Lebreton, a Frenchman who I climbed with in Font. in 2007. Only in climbing it seems could such an interaction happen.

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