Rocklands Day 14

Rocklands Day 14

Posted on 09. Aug, 2009 by in News

After two solid rest days I was very psyched, to say the least. We decided to go to a small area near The Campground. The burden of flying with so much extra equipment to camp is not worth it, but the campground seemed filled with all kinds of enthusiastic international characters. We made a relatively quick approach to The Alpha Farms and some nice warm-ups and then to a very nice dyno problem called Black Velvet V11.
It was really warm, certainly in the mid 70s and I wasn’t sure I could climb anything. Kevin destroyed this one with his trademark graceful style.

IMG_6995Black Velvet V11

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After throwing myself at this one and flailing, I took a break. If it wasn’t hot yet it got hot and I hid in the shade. I tried cooling off and dried my hands with liquid chalk, which seemed to help. I really hate climbing in the heat, but I was psyched and wanted to take advantage of my time. I used different beta by dynoing to a terrible sloper, throwing my heel on the lip. It seemed to work out and although desperate in the warm weather I topped it out. I thought I would probably spend the rest of the day taking pictures.

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The Alpha Farms

IMG_7022Some of the rock in Africa is incredibly streaked

IMG_7008Fields of Joy

We hung out for a while before deciding to hike to a new sector. It was probably 15 minutes back to the campground and then another 45 minutes to the Fields of Joy. Today the hiking was a bit much and not all were so joyous upon our arrival. I checked out some of the problems and thought I’d like to try and flash a really nice roof called No Late Benders V11. This is a really long problem with awesome sculpted holds. I fell off the last move on my flash go, rested for a while and then climbed it. Here is Nelson on the stand start No Late Tenders V10.

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I really value efficiency when it comes to sending. There was too much hiking this day, but it’s nice not to climb that much and tick two hard problems quickly. It was a good day at the boulders.

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