Neverending Story 1+2+3 FA, Magic Wood

Posted on 03. Aug, 2009 by in News

Peter Wurth has finally done the full link of the Neverending Story, Parts 1+2+3 in Magic Wood, CH. Well done! Interesting to see the mix of styles (bouldering with a harness on, to clip into a rope). This is similar to Fred Roughling’s route Akira (Fred gave his route a route grade, it seems that Peter is calling his link V14). Apparently, Fred Nicole has also done a very hard project in this same style in a valley in western Switzerland.

I think it is also great to see uncut video of a difficult ascent. While movies like the Dosage series or Pure provide highly edited and stylistic footage, which is awesome for motivation, day to day videos should have as little editing as possible.

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9 Responses to “Neverending Story 1+2+3 FA, Magic Wood”

  1. Ryan J

    03. Aug, 2009

    any idea what the bolted part is rated? the climbing itself looked easy and not steep, but he was trying very hard, so im inclined to think it at least in the 8th degree…

  2. Mathieu

    03. Aug, 2009

    Very nice video. The problem is sick, but i’m still wondering why the roped himself for the end of the route/problem. Maybe the video doesn’t show the good perception of how high it is….

  3. B3

    03. Aug, 2009

    I have heard V9 but I have no idea. It is def. tall enough to warrant a rope.

  4. Tron

    03. Aug, 2009

    I’ve read (German Blog) that he suggests the Route Grade 9a.

  5. peter b

    03. Aug, 2009

    Agreed on the appeal of uncut, unedited video. There is a good similar sequence from many years back of Ben Moon at Raven Tor linking a v12 or 13 into a 13C route at Raven Tor as a training routine. The video is called One Summer–low production values and Jerry Moffat’s lycra shorts are a bit too tight but great to watch nevertheless

  6. Curious

    03. Aug, 2009

    Peter B,

    Did Ben Moon (in that same video) mention that he was also using this link to help train for something else? If so, which route did he have in mind? And if so, finally, has the route since been climbed? Regardless, Thanks for the reminder, Peter B. No school like the old school?

  7. peter b

    03. Aug, 2009

    In the video, he describes how he was training for a project at Kilnsey that was redpointed at 9a by Steve McClure in 2000 and called Northern Lights. Somewhere I remember reading Ben saying that this project caused him to quit sport climbing. Apparently Malcolm Smith also worked this one for a while. Find out more here:

    http://www.foundryclimbing.com/articles/issue04/northern_lights/index.htm

  8. Curious

    03. Aug, 2009

    That’s a great story. Thank you for the link, Peter B.

    On a side note (and perhaps a bit off topic), I thought these blurbs also provided a fairly interesting bit of climbing history / trivia. The Stamina Band / Pump Up The Power Link:

    “I did the Stamina Band/Pump up the Power link the other day which I had tried for a few days last year and obviously have done Stamina Band loads of times before. Fresh from a 6 week sport climbing trip to the Frankenjura and it didn’t feel too bad. I’m not sure what grade it would be but I don’t think 9a would be too far off the mark. I am sure if I came to it completely on sight and had to work it all out it would take quite some time and feel pretty horrendous but as it was it didn’t feel much harder than Infinity in the Frankenjura which is a similar style 8c+ route. However, I have spent quite some time over the years on that particular bit of rock (8 days alone in 2001 on the Power band which was my first 7c).” -Rich Simpson (http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=703), and

    “11.10.2005: Strong Steve Maclure has completed the third ascent of the Staminaband/PUTP link up at Raven Tor in the Peak district. Originally thought to be 9a, the link climbs a font 8a traverse (stamina band) before a butch 8a+ (Pump up the power). It was first completed by the Gaskins crimp machine and then repeated by Rich Simpson (who suggested 8c+). Stevo has yet to suggest a grade.” (http://news.climbing.de/strong-steve-repeats-legendary-link-up/)

  9. unclesomebody

    04. Aug, 2009

    Just for the sake of clarification, what Steve climbed at Kilnsey wasn’t exactly the same line that Ben or Malc were trying. Steve did climb the same line of bolts but not the same line of holds. I’m certainly taking nothing away from any of these beasts, just pointing out a slight difference which perhaps made the project possible.

    Oh yeah, one more thing. Paul Smitton also repeated the Staminaband/PUTP link up last year. Underground beast if ever I knew one…

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