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Rocklands Day 2

Posted on 28. Jul, 2009 by in News

The second day we decided to check out some of the main bouldering areas near Pakhuis Pass. There are three main areas that are accessed from the parking lot, Roadside, Roadcrew and The Fortress. We decided to visit Roadcrew, which has such classics as Ulaan Bataar V8, The Power of One V13, Cedar Spine Arete V8, Amandla V14 and several others. It’s about a 40 min hike.

IMG_6386As you head down the hill from the parking lot, the expanse of rock comes into full view.

I felt really tired. We stopped at a nice V9 called Last Day in Paradise, which I flashed. Fred Nicole did the first ascent. The problem starts in a nice jug and heads up and left with a hard move coming off of a small and sharp right hand crimp. The girls worked out all of the moves and they would all eventually send the problem.

Flann sends Last Day in Paradise V9

Stephanie sends Last Day in Paradise V9

One of the most outstanding features of the Rocklands is the scenery. We kept reminding ourselves, as we looked north and east from the pass that “We’re in Africa!”

IMG_6470Flann ponders.

We made our way up to Ulaan Bataar V8. Some have called this the best problem in the world. I was struck by the gorgeous orange streaks. The problem is unfortunately contrived, and while the contrivance is obvious, this certainly takes away stars. Nevertheless, I climbed it quickly and then repeated it. An outstanding problem. Check out the pics.
Ulann Bataar V8

Kevin spent most of the day cleaning and preparing an amazing and terrifying problem. Welcome to Rocklands V4, steps off a ledge to begin with and immediately puts the climber 50ft above the ground. Kevin is one of the most technically solid climbers I have climbed with. His analytical brain seems to be constantly dissecting and constructing. He is one of the best climbers I know. He rehearsed the line several times on a toprope before commiting to the ropeless ascent. With the recent and tragic death of John Bachar, a legend in his own right, it brings the very real issues of free soloing to the forefront. Kevin climbed the line twice. I honestly had a hard time watching and it was difficult to even hide behind the camera to snap a few pictures, but nonetheless I was very impressed.
Welcome to Rocklands Kevin Jorgeson FA

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