New Boulders in Joe’s Valley

New Boulders in Joe’s Valley

Posted on 29. Apr, 2009 by in Joe's Valley

Since the Black Guidebook came out a few years ago, a ton of outstanding new problems have been done in Joe’s. Here are directions and some photos of some of the new problems that have been climbed in the last few years. Enjoy.

Left Fork
All milages are from the National Forest Sign.
.18 miles. Just before the Crack Boulder on the right side of the road (which is in the Black Guide) is a small pullout on the left. Cross the river bank to an obvious and large black boulder which faces the road.
Anthony Chertudi did the FA of the arete, which goes at V11, but most importantly there is one of the best and hardest projects I have seen in America. This is the kind of problem that would put Joe’s Valley on the map as a world class desination. It is a 20ft black overhang on perfect pockets. A stunning line. The best climbers in the country should be lining up underneath this one. Truly amazing. There is a picture of Isaac trying this boulder on his excellent blog here

The majestic project is on the black face peering through the trees, in the center of the photo.

.27 miles. Across the river from “Wood Removal by Permit” Sign is a long black boulder. On the left side is a fairly obvious and short bulge. This is The Skull V11.

.35 miles. A large parking lot on the left. Park here to access Halloween Town, which is upstream about 50yds from the parking lot. The Skeleton Key V11 is up the hill about 7 min and is most notable for the very hard and crimpy sit-start that has ALMOST been climbed by James Litz. From here hike about 50yds up canyon to a massive overhang. Zero V13 climbs out the right side, starting on two small crimps in the black rock and heading right through a mono.

.7 miles. A small pullout on the left. The massive boulder in the river that faces the road is A Wrinkle in Time V11 FA Paul Robinson. There is a project on the left side of the overhang. From here, look back down the canyon towards two massive boulders on the hill. On the down canyon side of the uphill boulder is a long black face. Prince of Thieves climbs from two small crimps.

img_3887 A Wrinkle in Time

img_3888Level Seven, home of Prince of Thieves

1.5 miles. Pullout on the left, just before the 8 Mile sign. This small gulley is home to several problems. Big Crimpin’ V10, Dark Continent V7 and Ghurka Knife V9 are all up the hill in this little cluster. Down towards the river is an obvious and sharp V7 arete which Tim Kemple did a while back.

img_3891 8 Mile Gulley

img_3892 Tim’s Arete V7

Trent’s Mom. Below Trent’s Mom is an obvious and heavily chalked overhang on tan rock that faces the road and can be seen clearly from the parking area. This is Worst Case Scenario V9.

Worst Case Scenario

From the Trent’s Mom parking area, cross the river and head up the obvious drainage. After about 10 min you will come to a cluster of three or four large boulders. Almost directly in the stream is a very nice Harry Robertson problem, The Moment of Truth V10. This faces the road and begins on a perfect flat edge. The first move is a tough one, up to a right hand sloping edge. A couple crimp moves lead to a wonderful and technical mantel.
Angie Payne on The Moment of Truth V10

Powerline Boulder lies about 100yds down stream at the same level as Trent’s Mom. There is a fairly well worn trail to the boulder, which faces downstream. The Man from The Past V11 climbs the black overhang on the left side of the face, starting on two underclings and making a hard move to a pocket, and then heading out left to the arete. The Mask of God V13 (FA Pete Lowe)does the first three moves and heads right into some hard gastons. The Wind Below, Jason Kehls brilliant line is around the corner, in the middle of the boulder. It starts standing and the first move is a big throw up to jug. From there it climbs straight up the wall. I measured the problem from the lip to the ground at a surprisingly short 20ft 9inches.

img_3673 The Powerline Boulder

Eden Area, which is described in the guidebook. Save Yourself is now most often climbed by heading out left, taking the line of least resistance. This is probably a grade easier than the V9 given in the guidebook. There is also a sit start to Anatomy Act. Brian Capps has the FA of this and gave it V9, although I thought it was probably V10.

To get to The Gentleman’s Project and Blackout, which are on the same boulder, park at The Angler and walk down the road (up river) about 100yds to a small pullout on the left. Across the street is a small cairn. Follow the well worn trail for about 8 minutes up the hill to an obvious overhanging face. There seem to be other moderate problems around as well.

Right Fork
Last year I put up problem called The Afterthought on a square looking boulder about 10 minutes up the hill from the Warm Up boulder, described in the guidebook. A hard project is to the right.

There is a large parking area on the right about .25 miles past No Additives. From here, follow a newly marked trail up an old road grade. When the grade ends after 200yds or so, head up hill to a fairly obvious cluster of boulders. In this cluster lies Playmate of the Year V9, which faces down canyon and very nearby is Battletoads V10, a short but quality arete on perfect black rock.

I will gladly post any more information on problems that people would like to know about.
The Knocking Room, which was near Scary Monsters, broke and is no more.

34 Responses to “New Boulders in Joe’s Valley”

  1. Collin

    29. Apr, 2009

    This is awesome, thanks Jamie

  2. hayden

    29. Apr, 2009

    Your best informational post ever. Thank you, this is the kind of material I look to the internet for.

  3. Narc

    29. Apr, 2009

    On a scale from 1 to 10 how disappointed should we be about “knocking room” breaking?

  4. B3

    29. Apr, 2009

    The knocking room wasn’t as good as Trent’s Mom or The Wind Below, however, it was a quality problem that was exceptionally fun to climb on. It was on its way to become a classic. Maybe a 6.

  5. Jon G.

    29. Apr, 2009

    Excellent Jamie! That project looks amazing… Cant wait to be driving distance from Joe’s… I’m psyched!

  6. sockhands

    29. Apr, 2009

    a sincere thanks to you, sir.

    someone had needed to do this for a long time. identifying and addressing that need is to be commended. also, the top shot is very nice.

    i wept bitterly into my pillow when you txtd that knocking room broke… looked like an amazingly fun gym problem that overshadowed smokin’ joe in greatness, as it should, because smokin’ joe is so so bad and needs to be wiped off the face of the earth.

    only the good die young.

    rest in piece, knocking room. i shall spill some choss for you in memory on each anniversary of your passing.

    que taps.

  7. kyle

    29. Apr, 2009

    Thanks, your photos are excellent and the idea of putting this information out is awesome. Now I just gotta get away from KY for a while.

  8. alex

    29. Apr, 2009

    I’ll add that if you travel ~10 min uphill from rt. sign you will arrive at a nice black pocketed boulder that is home to the dance with the devil boulder. Home to a highball v7 (like wind below with a worse landing) and projects (i believe) to the left and right . On your way you’ll pass a v5ish thing and if you continue over the first cliff band you’ll arrive at the godsend v10/v11 an Andoni problem. Also just across from the mine cart boulder there is a fun little steep cave with a good v5-kill by numbers, and an orb looking line that was recently done by Rocco.

  9. PIzzle

    29. Apr, 2009


    Tell me more about playmate of the year – is that stuff on the upcanyon side – not the river side?

    I did a problem in an area very near there 3 star v7 called No Rehearsal – really want it to get some repeats too


  10. Battaglia

    29. Apr, 2009

    You da man. Thanks for responding to my post. I’m leaving soon for Joe’s for a couple weeks and this is what I was lookin for.

  11. B3

    29. Apr, 2009

    Playmate of the year is downstream from the mine on the east side of the right fork. There is an old road grade about 200yds up the hill. You can follow a faint trail past pimpin jeans to a small cluster of problems in a wash above a white cliffband. There are several problems here and this would serve as a landmark. From here follow a faint trail up canyon to the old road grade. There is a cluster of boulders on your right. Playmate starts on two sidepulls and climbs a somewhat Southern stye problem with squeezing and slopers. I think V9 is a fair grade, although it would probably get V7 at HP.

  12. B3

    29. Apr, 2009

    Thanks for the posititve response!

  13. B3

    29. Apr, 2009

    Also, in regards to the boulder with Dance with the Devil, Anthony did the line to the right of that a dubbed it Kill List which I think is V11 or V12. Dance with Devil is a great problem, one that Angie Payne cleaned up, and Tim Kemple did the FA. Great problems.

  14. Andrew

    30. Apr, 2009

    I love the fact that Capps has his problems uprated… purity control and the sit to anatomy acts… strong fellow!

    thanks for all the info jamie!

  15. chris

    30. Apr, 2009

    jamie if you get bored soon u should think about doing something like this for red feather as well.. just an idea…

  16. Owen

    01. May, 2009

    Just downhill from external tulips (the Eden area) there is a newly developed V7/8 that definitely deserves some traffic. Any chance that anyone knows the name?

  17. Rocco

    01. May, 2009

    Owen, I put up that problem in eden, and it’s called Bring the Heatwole.
    Two other new additions worth mentioning are:
    Chunky Monkey V6/7 30? yards up canyon from the Moby Dick parking area on the right, 20 ft. off the rd.
    East Coast Pass V8 Large block 100 yards away from the Warmup area slightly down canyon. Highball.

    I’ve developed alot more, cleaned 15 new problems in the past two days, and saw maybe 50? more. Lots of moderates. I’m trying to work out how to get this info out to people. Maybe I’ll get a website working soon.

  18. Ovrfiend

    01. May, 2009

    Is Bring the Heatwole a nod to Peck? Nice work on the developing front, man.

  19. Mike James

    04. May, 2009

    Hey bud when do you want to come by the project? Give me a call and we can meet up.

    Mike James

  20. Rocco

    05. May, 2009

    @ Ovrfiend: Yes, that is a nod to Peck. He was there with me when I found it and climbed it. He’s one of my better friends here in Salt Lake. Thanks for the kind words also.

    On another note. My main hippie friend Yuri Kimball and I have found 5 fairly concentrated zones consisting of 50+ potential problems on great quality rock. We put up 14 new problems yesterday and this morning. If anyone is interested in checking out some new stuff, give me a shout at

  21. anthony Chertudi

    06. May, 2009

    I’ve been thinking of doing a guide just for joes, I figure I know the place really well since I have been climbing there since 94′.

  22. Woodeye

    07. May, 2009

    A couple grade thoughts, we have been calling Moment of Truth V9 and Save Yourself V7, for what its worth

  23. Cheap Climbing

    27. May, 2009

    Looks like big cottonwood canyon almost in Utah! Awesome.

  24. Brad H

    23. Oct, 2009

    Thanks for this writeup! I am heading to Joe’s for the next week and a half and will definitely make use of this!

  25. Tye W.

    20. Nov, 2009

    Great work. So appreciative of everyone (Rocco, Anthony, ect..) that keep pushing to put up great lines in Joe’s. The place has such good rock and so much potential. You guys are amazing.

    On another note, has anyone tried the Black Butter Project (unofficial name) cleaned by Heath Lilly? I *believe* its just the left side of the right fork from No Additives. It looks very hard.. Tall and good landing though.

  26. Noah

    28. Nov, 2009

    Kudos, Jamie. Sick post.

    Anyone know the rad looking ultra highball that you can see across the road and up from WAMU? I hiked up there (~15 mins up hill) and the line was chalked, looks mega.

    has this gone? also, we’ve been doing more recon in huntington and have found some gems to go back to this year.


    btw, East Coast Pass is rad. nice one, Rocco.

    …sick post

  27. Tony D

    09. Dec, 2009

    Did anybody send a problem just the right of “planet of the apes”? I had some chalk on it but not much. I even had to put some chalk on a couple holds that weren’t obvious. I tried it and all the moves went. Starts in a dihedral on good jugs or incuts depending on which holds you like and you have a heel hook and bomber heel toe cams. It then quickly leads into long reachs on poor holds. It’s kinda on a bulge. I’ve been down there a million times and never noticed it until I saw some chalk on it. It’s definately not “Vegas”. Let me know if anybody has done it or know what it is/rated.

  28. B3

    09. Dec, 2009

    Darryl Dodson put some effort in but I don’t think he completed it. I tried it briefly but broke two holds and walked away.

  29. Tony D

    09. Dec, 2009

    It seemed pretty good and all the holds on it are there to stay ( for the time being.) I’m not familiar with Darryl. Is it pretty difficult if he didn’t send? I guess I’ll try it no matter what. I just don’t want to claim an FA if it isn’t mine.

  30. Anthony Chertudi

    08. Jan, 2010

    Free Guide to Joe’s Valley coming early spring. The site- or
    This will be a complete and always up to date free guide. If anybody has new development please leave comments on what you have developed. I hope all will enjoy and respect Joe’s!

  31. Sundev

    10. Aug, 2010

    Hey Jamie,

    Thanks for this info. Along with this post, my own limited knowledge and J. Wood’s extensive knowledge, I’ve added a number of these areas to WikiBoulder and also gave you a link back to this post:

    Anyone, feel free to sign up and add to or edit this guide.

  32. Sundev

    10. Aug, 2010

    Oops! I gave you the link to editing the guide which will only work if you have an account with WikiBoulder. Here is the link to the guide:

  33. Darryl D

    06. Sep, 2010

    Tony D If you are talking about the problem 4 or 5 feet to the right of Planet Of The Apes Mike Bockino sent it while I was there and im not sure if it had been done before. He called it V8 I believe. The problem on the back side of the planet of the apes boulder to my knowledge has not been done. It is not a particularly good piece of rock either.

  34. jay D

    03. Mar, 2011

    Im heading out to Utah for a couple of weeks in Mid May. coming from the east coast and was wondering where I could set up some tent camping near Joe’s Valley?

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