Joe’s Valley

Posted on 26. Apr, 2009 by in Joe's Valley

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It’s been quite warm here lately and my time here is coming to a close. The other day I finished up Mass Hysteria, or the sit start to Hooters, which felt on the hard end of V11. I think this is a classic problem and is the most obvious start for this streaked wall.

Seth Allred has joined the group and he added an obvious line on the Twang Boulder, which I think could be V11. Seth climbed the FA in the morning and I returned in the evening to get the second ascent. The crux is similar to Trice, but in reverse, with a small, hard to grab pocket for the left and a bad intermediate for the right. Seth also climbed an nice arete on the left side, starting from two pockets. This is probablty V8 or so. This boulder is just past Area 51 on the right in the gulley. I will have some video of both problems going to MVM soon enough.

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I climbed the Lumberjack Low, adding a really nice campus move starting from the starting holds from Beyond Life. Sander climbed it was well.

Sign in to MVM and you can watch Dave on FA of the LumberJack here: http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/?initVidURL=271

Although I didn’t manage to send Black Lung, it was still a great trip. Joe’s continues to produce incredible problems and the atmosphere here is second to none. I got to climb some of the best problems in the country. Here is a short video of a problem not in the guidebook, near The Ghost King.

One of the most important aspects of my climbing is to try and repeat problems I consider testpieces. Problems that come to mind are Nuthin But Sunshine, Circadian Rhythm, The Automater, and Slashface. I have had a lot of success in the past and I wouldn’t be trying hard enough if I didn’t fail. I look forward to trying again in the fall.

9 Responses to “Joe’s Valley”

  1. ballsackith

    26. Apr, 2009

    Lumberjack oringinally started on beyond life, that’s where I always thought it started

  2. B3

    27. Apr, 2009

    We watched a video of Dave doing the FA and he def. started on the jug, not on Beyond Life.

  3. campusmang

    27. Apr, 2009

    yo je, when are you coming to gl next?

  4. sockhands

    27. Apr, 2009

    plz post link to video of dave doing fa of lumberjack

  5. sidepull

    27. Apr, 2009

    sweet slab! best climbing blog – keep em coming jamie!

  6. fitz

    27. Apr, 2009

    http://vimeo.com/3995831
    look at 03:21
    carlo is starting on beyond life.. no?

  7. B3

    27. Apr, 2009

    yeah, I wasn’t claiming an FA by any means. Just pointing out that the Lumberjack actually starts on the jug, because that’s where Dave started it.

  8. ballsackith

    29. Apr, 2009

    Oh. My bad that is weird he started higher on jug. For some reason I thought he started lower either way great problem

  9. ballsackith

    29. Apr, 2009

    I am pretty sure those new lines u guys did on the Tang bloc r FA’s the hardest established problem prior was only V7 nice job psyched to come check em out

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