Joe’s Valley

Posted on 20. Apr, 2009 by B3 in Joe's Valley

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The temperature has risen after a snow storm blew through and although I have made some progress on Black Lung, it seems unlikely I can finish it in far less than ideal temperatures, as the sloping holds are extremely conditions dependent. I have turned my attention to other lines. Sander and I checked out a very nice boulder up the road from Area 51. We have talked to people that claim this has been done and others that swear it hasn’t. It certainly had been previously cleaned, however the feet were extremely dirty and there was no sign of boot rubber whatsoever. I managed to climb the line and it is a great problem, one that if it had been done, has gone surprisingly unnoticed. Anyways, until any other information arises, I am claiming the FA of The Ghost King V10. Some very nice compression climbing is followed by a tall but fairly easy slab.

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In the morning I had my best session yet on Black Lung and conditions were still ok. Afterwords we walked up the road to check out this boulder. We figured out the beta quickly and in a few tries I climbed it to a nice finishing jug. I was scared to continue on possibly dirty and fragile holds, so we met back at 5, with a a rope and motivation. I messed up once and then fired it, all the way to the top.

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Sander got insanely close but couldn’t quite finish it up. After climbing numerous 10s and 11s very quickly Sander thought this could be V11. It’s hard to say, but either way it’s a great problem and hopefully one that sees more traffic. Hopefully we’ll get some video tomorrow.

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The Ghost King V10

Two ethical issues of note. First of all, some one built a fire underneath Resident Evil and Black Lung. If I was trying to put a fire scar on both problems its placement was nearly perfect. I see this as unsightly, totally unnecessary and potentially damaging to two classic problems in Joe’s. Unacceptable! If it is too cold to climb go sit in your car or hotel.
Secondly, the classic V9 The Knocking Room broke when climbers pulled out on a crucial hold the day after a long rainstorm. While it is speculative as to whether or not the wetness caused the break, I was told that the area underneath the hold was wet. It seems like this was probably the reason. I know everyone is in a mad dash to climb stuff, but please try to refrain from climbing on incut hold on wet rock the day after a rain!!! The climbers I was with discussed this possibility and that problem was brought up as something that shouldn’t be climbed on after a hard rain.

17 Responses to “Joe’s Valley”

  1. campusmang

    20. Apr, 2009

    for the crux
    pull up quickly with both arms, trying to use your right hand as much as possible too.

    let go with your right hand and quickly
    focus on contact strength big time

    rest 5-30 minutes between goes

    you will send the black lung

  2. campusman

    20. Apr, 2009

    & suck your hips into the rock like you have a relationship with it. focus on balancing on your right foot, dont worry so much about your left foot but catch a couple toe smears on your way up.

  3. Rocco

    21. Apr, 2009

    If the holds up top were loose, I’d say call it good on the FA Jamie. Since I moved here a year ago, I’ve heard a whole lot of “it’s been done already” when things very obviously hadn’t. Take it all with a grain of salt, and use your own judgement would be my advise. It was good to “officially” meet you this weekend. I’d be happy to show you some new problems if you are psyched.

  4. woogie

    21. Apr, 2009

    The boulder up the road from Area 51 is called the Tang boulder.

  5. Noah

    22. Apr, 2009

    The coolest new done/undone problem I’ve seen is visible from UMWA up the hill 10 mins on the other side of the road. She’s a beast. Was chalked when I walked up there, 4 stars except for the landing. TALL. Has this line been done? Love the blog, Jaime. Keep up the good work, amigo.

  6. Jefferson

    23. Apr, 2009

    Sandstone is porous, sucks up water, and is much more fragile after rain. So I totally agree with you on waiting to climb, but alas, we learn our lessons as we experience life.

  7. campusmang

    23. Apr, 2009

    yes, and its okay

  8. poindexter

    23. Apr, 2009

    Jamie, great posts! If I had any motivation to climb I’d be SO psyched! But great pics and vids man, keep everyone psyched.

    I thought everyone agreed to call the sit to hooters ‘tranny surprise’ that day harry did it. Where’d you get ‘Mass Hysteria’?

  9. poindexter

    23. Apr, 2009

    PS- have you tried Jason’s beta on the Blung? WAY easier.

  10. B3

    24. Apr, 2009

    Thanks Ethan, Harry told me he named it Mass Hysteria. I asked him the other day. I was psyched to repeat it with Ben’s original method, not to spite anyone or prove anything, just because I think it’s neat that way.

  11. campusmang

    25. Apr, 2009

    don’t worry about motivation

    if you wanna climb then u wanna climb, and that is being psyched.

  12. Joe’s Valley - Day One at the Right Fork « Dream in Vertical

    29. Apr, 2009

    [...] not want to harm the fragile sandstone. The delicate nature of these rocks was reinforced by the recent news that the The Knocking Room had broken due to climbing after a rain storm.  After a wonderful [...]

  13. Watchdog

    04. May, 2009

    Interesting, I have seen a few of the complainers climbing at Joe’s the day after a good rain so we can all say that we wouldn’t do this or that in retrospect, but people make mistakes so lets not get too upset. I was there the day the knocking room broke. There were more than 6 people trying the problem and even campusing onto the hold that eventually broke and into the next move without breaking it. Unfortunately the hold was far too incut for its surrounding support and sandstone does not always hold such features for long whether the rock is wet or not. I have seen many “newer” sandstone problems break, such is the nature of rock. After inspection of the broken hold it was snapped in half with no effort at all. Regardless of this fact, it is not acceptable to climb after a heavy rain especially on sandstone. However, on the brighter side of things the knocking room is now probably 8b which will keep you strongmen busy. Enjoy

  14. Dom

    05. May, 2009

    i was also there, and im going to go ahead and add that it was not climbed on the day after a rainstorm. but after a snowstorm. and the climb was protected by a tarp. and the climb is pretty darn overhung… it was dry.
    it is true that 6+ people were there… and no one made mention of any suspect holds at all.. which shows at least that it was NOT plainly obvious that the problem shouldn’t be climbed on.
    based on empirical evidence, im going to speculate the break was due to the nature by which it was being pulled on… not the timing of the most recent “torrent” of precipitation.. the hold was incut and a very strong climber was trying to flash the problem and was puling out on the hold.
    enough said.. we all climbed that day..

  15. B3

    05. May, 2009

    I am not trying to be so accusatory, I just want to remind everyone to be conscience of it, that’s all. Nice to meet you though Dom.

  16. Dom

    05. May, 2009

    yeah, i guess, i was just really bummed that it broke, and got my panties all in a bunch…
    a point worth raising for sure..
    yeah man, the campfires were fun… crush in SA!

  17. B3

    05. May, 2009

    Thanks Dom. I would love to show you around CO if you ever make it out.

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