The Scrawny and the Brawny Video

Posted on 18. Apr, 2009 by in Bouldering Videos

I ran a lap on this old school Joe’s problem the other day. Here is the video.


The Scrawny and the Brawny V10 from Jamie Emerson on Vimeo.

7 Responses to “The Scrawny and the Brawny Video”

  1. Jimmy

    18. Apr, 2009

    Like your small videos alot, gets me really psyked on Joe’s!! Jimmy from Swe!

  2. sock hands

    18. Apr, 2009

    bennett, what do you have to say about this one?

    i’d do the dirty work myself, but i have tried and failed on this one a few times, so i can’t pull the fun punch

  3. B3

    18. Apr, 2009

    Sockhands, I know this on about 50 of your ticklists. You love it.

  4. campusmang

    19. Apr, 2009

    0:22
    no pinkie
    still my biggest pet peeve ever, seen so many videos of people falling when their pinkie came off

    0:30
    no index finger
    naturally, this is how you should reach for a far hold (with your wrist curved). reaching for a hold with the pointer finger first is natural because we point with that finger, but actually you should be reaching for far holds with your pinkie ring and middle fingers (as shown). reaching this way extends your arm further because more muscles come into play.

    if the hold is big enough, and not that far away, focus on grabbing holds with all fingers always-crimp, flex, or open hand grip it how ever you have to grip. however; if the moves are easy enough, you can sometimes rest for a crux and save chalk if you climb with out a chosen finger for a move or two (only for desperation).

    climb for fun and knowledge, if you are completely confused im sorry

  5. Reslas

    20. Apr, 2009

    Thanks for making cool videos without all the crappy rap music….”Since when did the hood find the rocks in the woods!” Thanks again for not being another “wigga’-pro” climber….

  6. Rastas

    20. Apr, 2009

    ya je, truly appreciated that you are not a “wigga’ +pro” climber….

    and its okay if fingers come off while climbing, it happens a lot. typically you do put your pinkie back on when needed (like in the Aragorn video)and that is good. since your index finger was lifted off it shows you grip for holds well, not only because chris sharma does this often, but because you should focus on the middle and ring fingers mostly.

    smoking is bad for your lungs

    period

  7. cook dawg

    25. Apr, 2009

    yeah jamie!!!!!! slay that shit!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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