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Joe’s Valley

Posted on 13. Apr, 2009 by B3 in Joe's Valley

I have now been in Joe’s for a week. Mostly I have been climbing with Sander Pick and Kevin Cuckavich. It has been a great time and I think we are now all in the rhythm of life on the road. Although my main objective is Black Lung, there are so many amazing problems it’s hard not to try other things. The first few days I felt quite sluggish, but on the third day of climbing I surprised myself by climbing Botox Bowtie V13.

Botow Bowtie V13

This is the short prow below Wills of Fire. It is a surprising amount of hard compression moves and it fit me really well. The rock is good and it was a nice send at the beginning of the trip. I am unsure of the grade, it could be easier but I nice problem nonetheless. It is also a nice complement to all of the slightly overhanging tall faces that are typical of the style here.

Botox Bowtie

After a rainy rest day, the weather was perfect and motivation was high. I had my sights set on one of the best problems in Joe’s, Trent’s Mom V10. I have tried this problem on several trips and it has always been hard for me. Friday I refined my beta, using a heel hook instead of a toe on the last hard move. Sunday, I warmed up by climbing the topout, and then climbed it first try from the start.

Trent’s Mom V10

I would put this problem in the Top 5 V10s I have climbed, and this was my 125th problem of that grade. Here are some pics, and here is my list:

1. Whispers of Wisdom, RMNP
2. Trent’s Mom, Joe’s Valley
3. Golden Harvest, Rocktown
4. Jitterbug Perfume, Joe’s Valley
5. Full Service, Hueco Tanks

After, we walked over and Sander made quick work of The Man From The Past V11, a classic problem in its own right.

Sander Pick sends The Man From the Past.

Kevin kept the energy rolling by sending another steller problem, Beyond Life V10. This would be in my top 5 but for the poor, but manageable, landing. It was too warm to try Black Lung, so we hiked up to The Gentleman’s Project V11. I talked to Jason Kehl earlier in the day and he confirmed that his name is “The Gentleman’s Project.” I had tried this a couple times the other day but with renewed energy I did it quickly. One of the most appealing things about Joe’s, other than the free camping, laid back atmosphere and good spring weather, is the abundance of top notch problems in the V10 and V11 grade. It was great to tick off two of these problems in one day.

San Rafeal Swell