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Utah

Posted on 04. Apr, 2009 by in Joe's Valley

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Tomorrow I leave for Utah for at least a week. The number one goal is Black Lung, but I am also interested in a few new things, including Zero V13, The Masterpiece V13, Blackout V12/13 and new V11 put up by Matt Wilder at the 8 Mile area. Very psyched to be heading back!

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Tom on The Right Sign Project, which he cleaned a two weeks ago, but has yet to complete.

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Black Lung 8B, photo Beto.

Impressively, Bern Zangerl has made the second ascent of From the Dirt Grows the Flowers V15. This has stood the onslaught of many of the best climbers, and it seems to be a good candidate for a benchmark of the grade. Seeing how long it took for this problem to get repeated, it is hard to imagine there are problems in the V16 range. Grade inflation seems to have gotten out of control, and it would be unfortunate if this was the only way that bouldering difficulty could progress. I would love to see what Paul Robinson or Daniel Woods could do if they spent 3 years on a project. I spent around 90 days (and 3 years) on my first V13 Nuthin’ but Sunshine. True V16 will be a reality when the stongest climbers dedicate themselves to something like this, however it seems that in today’s day and age, repeating is what makes quick news.

9 Responses to “Utah”

  1. Fi

    05. Apr, 2009

    Good luck Jamie. STICK SEND!!!!

  2. Ryan J

    05. Apr, 2009

    any idea how many days dave spent on either From Dirt Grows the Flowers or Story of Two Worlds?

    If there were many days on Story, does that support the now suggested 8c+ grade??

  3. eb

    05. Apr, 2009

    Some Brits might have explored what strong climbers can climb after some work…
    John Gaskin’s testpieces from 5-10 yrs ago (the Walk away sds, Shadowplay, Violent New Breed (more a boulder than a route)) are still waiting to see a repeat, even after the hardwork of very strong locals…

    Malc’ Smith also definetly pushed his limits on what he can do, at least on wood. You featured ‘Splinter’ recently, have a look at the only repeat (unless Ty did it since then) of one of his another testpiece: ‘perky pinky’ by Rich Simpson (who could have done even harder if he hadn’t quit climbing for boxing..):

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eA_zHzbUhpk

    Have fun in Joe’s

  4. hayden

    05. Apr, 2009

    can you try and get some photos of any of andoni txertudi fa’s?

  5. Yo Chi

    06. Apr, 2009

    Have you heard anything about Dai Koyamada’s problem Epitaf that he took a year to link and gave 8C? Pictures of it make it look pretty ridiculous, not to mention that it looks shorter and like more of a purely powerful problem than some of his longer ones that should probably have route grades as opposed to a possibly inflated V grade. I read on another blog that Sharma was over in Japan on a demo tour for Evolv, do you know or would you be able to find out if he got on any of the harder problems over there? It seems like western coverage of bouldering development in Japan is pretty much limited to whatever news happens to filter through. I think it’d be pretty interesting to see a bunch of strong Americans over there to see what they thought of it all. Anywho, great blog and thanks for putting up with my rambling tangent!

  6. Ken N

    07. Apr, 2009

    …Grade inflation seems to have gotten out of control, and it would be unfortunate if this was the only way that bouldering difficulty could progress. I would love to see what Paul Robinson or Daniel Woods could do if they spent 3 years on a project. I spent around 90 days (and 3 years) on my first V13 Nuthin’ but Sunshine. True V16 will be a reality when the stongest climbers dedicate themselves to something like this, however it seems that in today’s day and age, repeating is what makes quick news…

    I think you are too hard on the younger climbers and what their contribution should be or not be. They are kids in a candy shop. How can you blame them for not wanting to taste everything? Hell, p-rob is a full time student. DW is not even old enough to drink (Legally). If it was not for friends and families, they would also have to have full to part time jobs to just afford to get out and climb. I am positive that in 4 or 5 years you will see them invest 3 years in a project and there will be V16s. But until then, let them have fun. It is not like they are going to lose their strength over the next 10 years. It is more likely they will have to get a job to support a family. So enjoy the sweet stuff now!

  7. louie daley

    08. Apr, 2009

    I heard that the best sending food for Black Lung is a turkey and cheese Maverik sub (with a cookie on the side of course). Hook it up and send. Then eat another cookie to celebrate.

  8. Dom

    09. Apr, 2009

    hey jamie.. i heard a rumor that Joe’s got dumped on with snow in the past 48 hours…. is this true??? or just rain? im planning on driving out for a week, is that a good idea given the weather shit-u-ation??
    good luck on black lung man!

  9. Txertudi

    27. Apr, 2009

    The Motherland is pure and producing! Hope you send mang

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