Posted on 18. Mar, 2009 by in Red Feather Lakes


The past few days Brian Capps, Jason Pinto and I have continued to scope all of the potential in Red Feather. It seems there is more than enough to keep us busy until that Park season and some of the best problems have yet to be climbed! The pool of projects is massive. I added an obvious problem on the left side of the Toucan boulder that checks in at V9, and will make a very hard finish to the Vampire, perhaps 8B? We hiked up and checked out an amazing new V9 arete that Ben Scott just added. Ben has been instrumental in the development of Red Feather and has been putting up problems, finding new areas and taking me to projects since 2002. Anyways, Brian and I sent the arete on our second go. This is one of the best problems of its grade in Red Feather and perhaps Colorado and is a testament to all of the hard work Ben has put into Red Feather. Unfortunately, I didn’t get any pictures.

The Smurf Project and The Swoosh Projects remain unclimbed.

A few years ago I remembered climbing on a stunning arete project. To the left is a gorgeous problem called The Romantic Milkman, which takes the direct line up the slab. Brian, Jason and I hiked back and the arete was better than remembered. An 18ft prow, leads a dicey finish. It seems this one could be V13, and a spectacular one at that.

The Milkman Arete Project


Today we hiked past the arete, up to The Pap, a striking and unique apogee above the trees.

There, at the top of the Red Feather world, lies a steep and classic project. Brian and I were with out pads, but we plan to return. This one could be 8A and the setting is second to none.



On the hike down we saw a very nice wall with two good highballs.


I hope the weather stays cool enough so that we can finish some of these awesome projects.

Sunday I sent the Get Over It Super Sit, which I think is sold at V11, in maybe 5 or 6 tries from the start. Several climbers have this registered as V12. It’s nice for me to repeat some standard problems here or there as a good reminder as to how hard things should feel. I’ve been feeling psyched lately and feel like all the training is really paying off.

5 Responses to “Projects”

  1. campusman

    18. Mar, 2009

    for the record

    Gabe down climbed Ragged Edge 03/17/09

  2. Tommy

    18. Mar, 2009

    man, red feather is the nicest looking area i’ve seen (pictures of) in colorado.

  3. jacob

    18. Mar, 2009

    i’m psyched you guys made it up there. sorry i couldn’t show you around, but it looks like you found everything quite easily. the paw is something, eh? you guys should have hiked north to the glass house, home of the glass arete…very impressive rock(one of rfl’s best), and at least a few more projects lay waiting along the way. that last pic is of, what i have coined, the trailside wall.
    i’m so excited about the amount of development up here and totally psyched that more of the hard projects are being crushed. between what’s up around the paw and the new sector, there should be no lack of goodies.
    also, ask ben about the roof at the gully boulders. it may be worthy??

  4. B3

    18. Mar, 2009

    Jacob, thanks for the message, sorry we couldn’t hook up yesterday. Psyched that you had seen that stuff before, the Paw is amazing. Brian and I had a great day yesterday. Hopefully we can get out soon. Thanks for hiking around and finding all this stuff. We are really psyched!

  5. TKingsbury

    19. Mar, 2009

    Really nice looking stuff!

    Right on!

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