The V10 Project

campusman

20. Feb, 2009

verified

that v10 on Little Presque island did eventually get climbed by a tall climber.

ill try to find the name of it

Gabe

21. Feb, 2009

For North Carolina (my home state) might I suggest Stigmata at Moore’s Wall? Boone has great rock and problems yes, but Moore’s wall has rare rock quality (bullet hard metamorphosed quartzite), the lines tend to be pure, the movement fantastic, and the aesthetics unlike any other rock type.

Here are some shots of Stigmata V10, and the pictures do the line no justice, its quite perfect:

http://0friction.com/image.php?image_id=15182&ph=stigmata
http://0friction.com/image.php?image_id=5441&ph=stigmata
http://0friction.com/image.php?image_id=5433&ph=stigmata

Jon Linhart

21. Feb, 2009

Jamie-

Ambitious to say the least, but good on ya!! As for my home state of Ohio, not exactly a black hole, I’ve never been there but hear Hinckley (close to Cayahoga Falls) is actually quit good, think the photo you posted is from there. If you ever get a hankering to check it out I know a couple peeps to talk to.

Cheers
Jon

glclimber

21. Feb, 2009

Jamie, I thinks Oak Park may have a double digit problem for ya. Run your suicide machine backwards into ballerina…ballerina has changed since 2000 and is now v5/6…put ballerina on the end of a reverse suicide and it gets ridiculous (suicide ends where ballerina starts=a natural ine). No one had finished reversing suicide yet either.

sock hands

21. Feb, 2009

GB problem damaged: http://phillipschaal.blogspot.com/2009/02/gneiss.html

jroth

21. Feb, 2009

i have info on ohio and virginia possibles — drop me a line

Tom Markiewicz

21. Feb, 2009

Jamie, it was great meeting you at the Pure premier last night (albeit briefly!)

Couple things on your V10 project page – first, none of the links are working for me.

Second, regarding the West Virginia section, that photo is one I took at the Interp area at the New but if I remember correctly that problem is only a V7. Your best bet for a V10 is like you said, the Hawk’s Nest area.

I also have more images of the Interp bouldering posted here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tmarkiewicz/sets/72157603802960138/

You may also want to look into the bouldering at Cooper’s Rock. There has been tons of recent development there on the same type of gritstone you’ll find in Western PA.

Good luck with hitting your goal!

Kelly Sheridan

21. Feb, 2009

Jamie, Jamie, Jamie… You spent 2 days in Leavenworth and you’re going to write the entire area off?!

Now that Musashi has been downgraded from V10 to V9 (Which it already was when you visited…) you’ve got to make a return trip.

Good luck on your quest. You’re taking number-chasing to a whole new level.

Kelly

campusmang

22. Feb, 2009

2nd that, Ohio has hidden gems

i have seen the pictures

campusman

22. Feb, 2009

steve,
two days ago i campussed the crux on ballerina low

i had just taken a full rest (a week) for nerves to recover

shoulda tried schofics scam, never put my shoes on though…
wasnt feeling too serious that day, got psyched on that project to the right of A comedy of terrors, & tried a different start to Up Yours, which also feels quite doable.

B3

22. Feb, 2009

Kelly, I wasn’t too psyched on the rock quality of the things I saw in Leavenworth. Maybe my expectations were too high. Its so pretty there I would go back. Perhaps it was too hot, or just the end of our six month trip. I fully admit it could have been either or a combination. I think the guidebook we bought at the time had Musashi as an 11 so I thought I was giving it the downgrade. Guess I’ll have to come back. Gold bar looks great! cheers.

B3

22. Feb, 2009

Thats great people are trying new things. I may be back this spring and would love to check it out.

Narc

22. Feb, 2009

Hopefully we can find something good in WI, but for now I think Keymaker is going to be your best bet.

Mike

22. Feb, 2009

I know you’ve already ticked your ten in Wyoming, but as you said its was in the Woo and sharp and unpleasant are the norm for there. I’m still waiting to give you a tour of Cody sandstone. There are a handful of tens, a couple elevens and a thousand other problems to sample, plus projects. Tribal Vibrations V11 could use a second ascent and the direct line is on par with that difficulty and unsent.

Steve Schultz

22. Feb, 2009

Keymaker is probably the best bet for wisconsin, but there are a couple of possible projects too.

Pat

23. Feb, 2009

Hey,
Just wanted to let you know that you would have your choice of numerous V10s here in Flagstaff, AZ. We’ve got some hard, hard stuff here.

campusmang

23. Feb, 2009

Mike, cool to notice you on the site
i have heard a bit about u and Cody Wy
When i was at the Cove in KY with JE, Layf and some old dude ranted and raved about Cody sandstone
x cody law dog
Mark came here and continues to pull hard on some of the best sandstone in the world.

GL Video coming soon

Jon G.

23. Feb, 2009

West Virginia has a fantastic problem at the New River Gorge called The Squeal Project and it is around 7C+. It is down by the river at an area called Fayette Station and is very high quality. smooth river worn sandstone, independent line and decently tall.

Virginia has a few problems in the v9 range that are very good but not much harder than that. Old Rag has a lot of potential for first ascents and the granite is very good up there. McAfee’s Knob also has some hard lines and a pile of firsts…

The_Barbarian

23. Feb, 2009

Happy to point you toward Maryland, and Delaware V10 potential.

Steve

23. Feb, 2009

Ohio has a longstanding “project” (may have been sent)called The Gem at a small area called Brecksville, its pretty, independent and hard

Mike

23. Feb, 2009

Campusmang that old dude was most likely me and yes I’m still old and even crustier now. Marc is a sandstone crusher who is stuck in MI right now. It seems like he has linked every possible combo of holds the Ledge has to offer. If you ever get to Cody look me up, I’m easy to find.

ktmt

23. Feb, 2009

Jamie, here’s the guide you were missing for Montana: http://www.firstascentpress.com/lost-horse-guide.html

Lost Horse, south of Missoula, covered in the guide, is the place for your V-double-digit. You won’t be disappointed.

Also the Batholith web site refers to the Butte area, which has seen a good amount of recent activity (for Montana). See the Whiskey Gulch section of this guide for some of those problems: http://www.firstascentpress.com/butte-guide.html

Martin

24. Feb, 2009

There is a project at Westby Boulders in Wisconsin which has some really cool sandstone. I’m pretty sure it is definitely V10 or more. Narc may know more

sweatpants

24. Feb, 2009

dude! If you come anywhere near the midwest “the Narc” better not be the only one getting a call or email. It would be great to see ya again bro. I hope your well, send my love to Angie. weerddd

Tom Markiewicz

24. Feb, 2009

Contact Adam Walker about hard problems in Virginia:
http://distilledbouldering.blogspot.com/

As Jon mentioned above, there are some V9s in Virginia, but if there are any V10s in Virginia, Adam would know.

When I left Blacksburg, he was still developing McAffee’s Knob as well.

campusman

25. Feb, 2009

i dont even have gl to a T home boy
&
i am the law dog

nobody can shut me down

nobody

campusman

25. Feb, 2009

ps, im staying in michigan too, ya’ll need to come here if you want your money

thats right, the $10,000,000 bet still stands

climb better than campusman and u win

cardboard_dog

25. Feb, 2009

i am strongmo ..

u r weaksauce ..

pay me 10,000,000

Ryan

25. Feb, 2009

Once you finish this, how about a font 8 in every country? That could be quite an adventure…

campusmang

25. Feb, 2009

all u have to do is prove it

Brian

27. Feb, 2009

Wow, I am amazed at all the Ohio climbers that check this site. Unfortunately, The base of The Gem is under water.

ledgesclimber@yahoo.com

27. Feb, 2009

Type your comment here…

RT

27. Feb, 2009

Virginia: In Richmond, there’s a great V10 called “sweet nothings”. http://tinyurl.com/coolml

Joe

04. Mar, 2009

i thought i would just point out that half the “links” you posted for topos and climbing areas do not work…
also, the hardest thing that ryan and i climbed in that oklahoma video was V9, and there was little potential at that climbing area for anything else…

TKingsbury

05. Mar, 2009

For Montana, Whiskey Gulch has the complete guide online

http://whiskeygulch.50webs.com/home.htm

There has also been a good amount of recent activity in the Boulder Batholith (beyond Whiskey)

http://boulderbatholith.blogspot.com/

Cheers,

Tom

dachoppera

07. Mar, 2009

oklahoma has several double digit problems that were established in the nineties. several more have been established in the past few years

campusman

16. Mar, 2009

i bet jamie could climb v10’s and a lot harder than that in more states than anyone

that would be sick because he could tell you beta for so many states. but now the world is in a great depression, people are doing different things, not travelling as much, and we are all becoming more equal.

Libraries are packed full of people now.

MarkLotor

28. Mar, 2009

I’ll set you one in my gym here in Florida…haha

campusmang

15. Apr, 2009

steve s climbed the suicide machine from the starting side pull on ballerina for the fa

michael rathke

16. Aug, 2009

I am trying to do this line that is to the left of schofics scam.

it took me two days to figure out how to grab the first hold for your right hand. as for your left hand, the hold has changed. the tiny crimper has crumbled. it is now better to pinch the tiny hold on the over hang. a high step to a smear out left lets you reach really really high to the hueco. finishing with easy moves to the first ledge. its probly v13