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Posted on 18. Feb, 2009 by in Front Range

The weather in Boulder continues to be cold and the snow has lingered. Yesterday I made my way up to Flagstaff to climb Hollow’s Way, probably the best line on the Mountain. Unfortunately, that problem was covered in snow, so we made our way up the road to check out a new problem put up by Peter Beal called There Will Be Blood. Originally a stand start was climbed and later the SDS. Peter is a long time Boulder climber, art history professor, husband, father, motivated climber and avid blogger, and his blog is certainly worth a visit.
The problem is very straight forward and I thought I might have a chance to flash the whole thing. Typically, when given the option between two problems, I will climb on the easier of the two. It is easiest to build a base from the bottom and so I gave the stand start a flash attempt. I have not been very good at flashing things in the past and it is one area of my climbing I would like to improve. Preperation is a key element to flashing a hard problem. I was careful to brush the holds well and tick everything I thought I might use. I went over several beta options in my mind and thought about why they might work and why they might fail. I examined the top out, cleaned my shoes and and thoroughly chalked my hands. Once I made the decision to pull on, there was no time for hesitation and I moved with authority, reaching up left hand to a small, flat crimp. The crimp felt good and I dynoed to the lip. The hold was good and I quickly rocked over the lip. Nice to get a V10 flash.
The sit start adds three moves into the stand. On my first attempt I climbed to the stand start and fell on the first move, thankful that I tried to flash the easier version first. I fell a few more times on this move, and finally decided on a foot switch, which made all the difference. Peter originally suggested V12, but for me I would put this one at solid V11. Nevertheless a good effort on his part. It was a very pleasant day and one of the most enjoyable sessions I have had on Flagstaff.

4 Responses to “Flagstaff”

  1. peter beal

    18. Feb, 2009

    Good description of the problem Jamie. My biggest issue with the whole sequence is that I feel much too stretched out on the crimp to dyno to the lip. This means I have to do this reset sequence which is very tenuous. It is unfortunate that the lip is so good up there as it cuts off the problem just when it could get interesting. But I didn’t design the boulder.

  2. jroth

    18. Feb, 2009

    hollow’s way the best line on the mountain? ha! (i scoff only cause i can’t do it.)

  3. The Adventure Channel

    19. Feb, 2009

    Nice report and description that is!

  4. Gabe Myers

    11. Nov, 2010

    Wow all you seem to talk about is grades, grades and grades. Do you even enjoy the simplicity of climbing, or do you only do it for the numbers that feed your ego. You degrade climbing in this way.

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