East Spur

East Spur

Posted on 07. Jan, 2009 by in News


The next day we went out on a tour to the East Spur. I was psyched for anything new and found myself at the base of the amazing Fred Nicole problem Nagual V13. I quickly did all of the hard moves, save one, and was happy with that effort. I rested until the end of the day. I had tried Rumble in the Jungle V11/12 (a Chris Sharma problem in the East Spur) 3 years ago briefly one day was psyched to give it some effort. I figured out some very good beta and and on what was my 5th or 6th try from the start, I snagged the jug and whipped my heel around. I was pumped and tired and fell on the tenuous slab move. I tried again but my foot slipped and I fell low. Steph and Flann both climbed Better Eat Your Wheaties V8 and Flannery climbed A Good Day for Swiss Crisp Mix V10, for a nice one day effort.

Stephanie Marvez

Better Eat Your Wheaties V8

The next day was a rest day at Carlsbad Caverns, 2 hours east of the Park. I highly recommend a visit if you have an extended trip in Hueco.

I felt fresh and psyched the following day and had one of my best days, ever. The legendary Matt Tschol was our guide and fearless leader. We went straight to Rumble in Jungle. After a mess up burn and climbed it right away. I think this is one of the nicest hard roofs in Hueco with all of the pinches and technical climbing.

Rumble in the Jungle



I then went up to the Mr. Serious Boulder and sent The French Tickler V9. I think it’s tragic this only gets 3 stars in the guidebook. It climbs the middle of an enormous, gorgeously streaked wall. A truly stunning problem. The light was poor and unfortunately didn’t get any good pics.

After a short break, I climbed Dead Serious V10, which is as bad as the Tickler is good. Already psyched on my day and with no expectations, we went over to the Purple Flowers roof. I nearly flashed Flower Power, a grogeous V11 that starts on one of the coolest holds in Hueco. I did it on my second try. Problems like these are one of the reasons I enjoy bouldering in Hueco so much. Athletic movement, amazing sculpted holds, and great rock make for perfect problems.

Randy Puro makes a quick send of Flower Power V11

With a little time left in the tour we hiked over to West Mountain and a problem I had tried a few years ago called The Scream. There are three starts, a V10, 11, and 12 and with energy running out I decided to go for the easiest one. A jug leads to a poor slopey pinch, followed by a hard bump again. I was flailing and it seemed like climbing this last one would be unlikely. However, I figured out a key hip movement and thrutched my way to the top.

The Scream V10

It was awesome day with good friends. So glad to be here! Word.

2 Responses to “East Spur”

  1. das bpc

    08. Jan, 2009

    smarvez climbed a climb that i could not climb even when i was better at climbing!

  2. Climbing Holds

    30. May, 2009

    Those rocks look just like these holds from this website, crazy cool.

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