Hueco Tanks

Hueco Tanks

Posted on 04. Jan, 2009 by in News

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I have been in Hueco for more than a week and I have been having an amazing time. The weather has been a bit warm but very clear and the evenings have been perfect. Although my goals were a bit less focused this time, I was most interested in climbing Shaken not Stirred aka The Right Martini V12, in the Martini Roof. Although this problem is really low, a traverse, and has a horrid chossy topout, the movement, sculpted holds and history (it is one of the standards for the V12 grade) make it one of the most desired ticks in the park. I do the problem in 23 moves plus the topout.

Saturday was our first day and we went to North Mountain. I warmed up by climbing the classic arete Babyface V7. Flannery also made quick work of this wonderful problem. We made our way over to Power of Silence V10, and after falling several times moving to the upper crack, I sunk my fingers in and topped it out. It was a great way to start off the first day.

The second day I worked out the moves to Right Martini and gave it a few goes from the start, falling a couple times fumbling around in the big Hueco.

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After a rest day it was back to North Mountain and the Martini Cave. I thought I had a chance to send but after a few sloppy goes, it seemed unlikely. I took a long rest. Somehow I stumbled my way back to the hole, but this time I mananged the hard move out of it. The door opened up and I saw my chance. I became very focused and moved with renewed determination and the chance to tick one off of my lifetime list. I clamped down as hard as I could and found myself teetering up the chossy top.

Shaken not Stirred V12
Shaken not Stirred V12

My bouldering career is now more complete having climbed this classic testpiece. Afterwords, we made our way over to Free Willy. A few years ago I had climbed an easier variation to this problem. Most climbers reach up to a small slot with their left hand and dyno to the lip with their right. The variation reaches the slot with the right hand and moves out left to the lip. It is probably V9 for this method (called Free Will by FAist Ryan Olson), and hard V10 for the original method. Flann had tried this the other day and had done all the moves on the harder version, moving off of a poor intermediate crimp. She made quick work the second day, for what is probably a first female ascent. Well done. I climbed it immediately afterwords.

It was a great to start the trip off in such a good way and Angie arrived on Monday evening.  More to come…

3 Responses to “Hueco Tanks”

  1. mervo

    04. Jan, 2009

    Nice work Jemerson and Flann.

    I had the pleasure of meeting, and climbing with, Flan about a month ago up the Poudre with Mcbride. Wish her all the best for me and stay strong Jemerson. Looke forward to hearing what your lady throws down on.

  2. cbo

    05. Jan, 2009

    awesome! Don’t know if you’ve done it but you should do Dean’s Journey…in my opinion one of the best lines on North Mtn.

  3. das bpc

    05. Jan, 2009

    word on the update. any videos to come out on mvm?

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