Comments on: Grades

By: Eddie

Eddie — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 14:59:13 +0000

The consensus rating on Mountain Project is a great feature. I in that most of the grades are different on MP than in some guides.
I myself travel a lot and doing so get to experience new areas and I am definitely on of the research climbers. I will have a tick list two pages before I leave. I start with two grades lower than I normally climb and then move to two grades harder than I climb. You never know how stiff an area is going to be. A great example is my last trip to up state NY. The grades at the Gunks area far more stiff than at Pok-o-Moonshine.

I climb up to v5. I find that if a problem was put up by someone that climbs 5 to 6 grades harder than the problems are far more stiff. It seems in some way that that person has lost touch with what a v5 really feels like. “If its easier than v9 than its a v4″ seems to be what tends to happen. Is that a god thing or a bad thing? I think it is just apart of the grading system that will never really change. But that’s what makes it fun to talk about.

By: RP

RP — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 18:09:14 +0000

I think climbs should be rated like ski trails. the color system allows for a general idea,but makes it more difficult to get caught up in the actual number aspect. I understand that there is no easy answer to the “grading” problem but this is just my two cents

By: cardboard_dog

cardboard_dog — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 18:16:28 +0000

No doubt grades are subjective. It always comes down to personal honesty. I found it interesting that despite the press you recieved for sending Freak of the Industry V14, you downrated it to V13. There is a problem in my home area rated V9 that i sent as a newish v7 climber. It’s been in the circuit since I sent. I tell people it’s hard V7 and they think I’m crazy. Enough people who have sent it think it’s hard enough that I could claim the 9 points but I just don’t want to. It’s not that hard for me. It’s fits my style. Very thin, small holds, very balance and foot work oriented. Some people claim Bierstadt is 9 points, but I took the 10. It’s pure power and some big moves, and it took me at least 4 sessions over 2 seasons. F that, I earned the 10 points. But whatev. I don’ care about the points anyway. I just sent a beautiful classic that i really wanted to get to the top of. In the end, unless you want sponsorship or a full score card, fo rsomeone like me grades are just another way to randomly choose a problem at a new area, or measure whether I’m getting better or if I’m stuck on a plateau.

By: tissue

tissue — Sun, 28 Dec 2008 08:03:56 +0000

i just want people to stop downgrading everything after i send. it’s making my fragile ego…um….brokened.

and while i think consensus would be cool, now that i think about it, it would even be cooler to appoint a grading czar: 1) it seems to be ‘super-hip’ in the federal gov at the moment, and 2) someone would get to be the grading czar.

i vote for sock hands. heez a jd. they know about the law. laws do stuff. czars do stuff. grades are stuff. stuff>stuff>stuff. don’t agree? it’s all in plato.

read.

By: gianluca

gianluca — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 20:17:37 +0000

idea for the “lower” end of the scale in popular areas.

just look at who does a specific climb.

a system like 8A can be used to roughly identify the “climbing level” of those registering all their ascents.

looking at the “average level” of the repeaters of a boulder problem or route is one idea.
the idea is : if V10 “A” has an “average repeater” who has done a few V9′s and never a V10, it should be easier than another V10 “B” that gets a lot of V11 climbers on.

the possible unwanted effect is that this kind of grade will incorporate some elements that go beyond the pure climbing difficulty. It is not what we usually think as “grade”.
Example : a dangerous highball with bad landing and very precarious moves will discourage people not having a fair margin on the grade, and so it would appear harder than things requiring the same climbing effort with less danger.
Or : a popular problem that gets a lot of teamed assaults will appear easier that something that gets less attention and motivation (etc)

By: we agree with someone else about grades: world coming to abrubt end? « It Came from the Garage

Thu, 25 Dec 2008 23:22:00 +0000

[...] want to start by saying – “YES” -Â i emphatically agree with jemerson’s consensual grading database [...]

By: B Russ

B Russ — Wed, 24 Dec 2008 03:24:59 +0000

I read more than one comment above about how grades are so useful/important when going to a new area and deciding what to climb. Personally, one of my favorite parts of bouldering is going to a new area and leaving to guidebook in the car. In fact I make it a point to explore areas sans guidebook(other than locating areas, parking etc). I walk around and try to climb the ones that look fun. If I don’t make it up one then I move on to the next. I always feel like a kid in a candy store. These are my happiest memories climbing. On a rope, grades can keep you out of danger….on a boulder……what does it matter as long as it feels good when you are climbing it???

By: peter beal

peter beal — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 19:42:48 +0000

Jamie,
I have written today on my blog about the changed tone at 8a.nu and tend to agree with your assessment of the problem with the site and its concept. Zachary may have it right.
Peter

By: zachary lesch-huie

zachary lesch-huie — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 16:17:48 +0000

Great thoughts on grades, Jamie.

I didn’t read all the responses in detail, so my apologies if this was mentioned. But the bleau.info site seems to have a consensus system similar to or exactly as you described. You’ve likely seen it, but it’s basically like an online poll, with people “voting” on what grade they think a problem is. Peoples’ votes for a particular grade assignment are indicated with percentages. When I first saw this, I thought it was the most sensible system I’d come across.

On a slightly different topic, I appreciate you thoughts on 8a.nu. I wonder if 8a.nu is reaching a peak in it’s popularity? There are small symptoms in and around rock climbing cyber culture that suggest folks are losing their enthusiasm for it. I personally hope so.

Enjoy the blog, Cheers,

Zachary

By: jamie

jamie — Wed, 17 Dec 2008 19:15:18 +0000

I haven’t really logged anything since mid-summer. For me, while I have enjoyed being a part of it and do look at the site every day, it seems to take something away from my climbing. Maybe less focus on friendships and laughter, I’m not sure, but I am happier without it.