Joe’s Valley

Posted on 10. Dec, 2008 by in Joe's Valley


This past weekend I made a very quick trip to Joe’s Valley. The weather was beautiful but the weekend was really short. Saturday I tried Black Lung briefly but it was warm and I made rock sculptures while the others climbed.


After a long rest we went over to Eden V10. I hadn’t tried it in a few years. I pulled on and suddenly found myself topping out. I was bummed that I had tried it briefly in the past, ruining my “flash” but this is an amazing problem, potentially four stars. I repeated it for the video.

We ran over to Trent’s Mom and the light failed before my energy. I will have to leave that one for another trip.

Sunday was cooler and we went back to Area 51. I finally stuck the second move on Black Lung and fell with my hand in the last right hand pocket several times. Black Lung is at the top of my lifetime ticklist and it is hard for me to explain how much I would like to climb this beautiful section of rock. The subtlety of the climbing, its reputation and status as a testpiece, and the gorgeous pockets make it one of the most desired boulder problems in America. Hopefully I can make it back soon.

6 Responses to “Joe’s Valley”

  1. das bpc

    10. Dec, 2008

    holy friggen lockoffs… nice!

  2. jamie

    10. Dec, 2008

    they are only getting bigger, tonite I begin training with D Wahl.

  3. Jeremy B.

    10. Dec, 2008

    I’m just incredibly impressed by the sculpture – how the hell did you manage to build a bridge from these little stones? Amazing!! But yeah, good job on the climb.

  4. jamie

    10. Dec, 2008

    Patience, it probably collapsed 10 times before I got it to work, and the help of a friend.

  5. JP Williams

    10. Dec, 2008

    Holy awesomeness! I tried this with a few folks last April/May, and have to say the line is amazing, and along with the others on the wall, is not to be missed.

    Thanks for posting the video, and nice work! JW

  6. peter b

    12. Dec, 2008

    Jamie, I’d be interested to hear more about the training program you are starting with Dave Wahl.

Leave a Reply