Last Friday I escaped Colorado on a solo mission to Joe’s Valley. I was interested in seeing some of the new problems that had been put up recently and perhaps climb some of the old classics. I planned on being there for 5 days with the intention of climbing every day. I arrived late in the dark to a brilliant Milky Way in the cold Fall night.
Saturday morning was crisp and clear. Unsure of where to go I followed some friends around, took pictures and made some video.
Here Scotty French climbs the beautiful Beyond Life V10, in the Left Fork
Towards the end of the day I hiked up the hill above No Additives to a new sector. My friend Isaac Calderio has recently been putting up a bunch of amazing new problems in this zone. One of the best is called Battletoads V12.
Battletoads climbs a short, blunt arete and uses one of the worst slopers I have ever climbed on.
It took me a while to figure out the beta. As is often the case on such technical problems the solution was subtle and inobvious. I was quite happy to finish this off in the fading light.
More to come in the following days…