The Millenium Boulder

The Millenium Boulder

Posted on 13. Nov, 2008 by in Front Range

Sunday I went to the Millenium Boulder with a great crew. The Millenium Boulder is a giant erratic (if anyone knows the actual geologic history of this boulder please share) that lies about a mile or so north of The Black Hole and Morrison, and it stands in great contrast to that scruffy cliffband.

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This awesome boulder features tall, independent lines with flat landings. Most of the hard climbing revolves around low percentage moves on marginal footholds and sharp pockets. First ascended by Brian Capps, (who graded it V8) and named in honor of the fact that it hadn’t been chipped by the locals, Purity Control V10 is the exemplar. I first visited this boulder in 2004 with Ben Scott after being rained out at Mt. Evans. I have probably been back six times and not once had I seen the top of the boulder.

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Purity Control starts on two pockets and makes a left hand stab to the heavily chalked pocket in the middle of the face. From there the climber dynos right hand into the seam just left of the obvious huecos.

I went to work right away on Purity Control and in a couple of tries managed to not fall. There was a very key change of beta in how to grip the first left hand hold and this seemed to make all the difference. Its nice to be able to cross off a classic Front Range testpiece from a list I wrote down 4 years ago. The rest of the day was great for relaxing. I climbed some of the easier lines, sat in the sun, and just enjoyed being outside. After a bit of a rest I put my shoes on and flashed the sit start to Ghost Dance which gets better the higher off the ground you get and did another V9 to the left of Purity Control I don’t remember the name of. It was such a nice balance of climbing and hanging out. Another great day of bouldering in Colorado.

11 Responses to “The Millenium Boulder”

  1. mervo

    13. Nov, 2008

    sheeeeewwww….. my life is in tact once again. Thanks Jemerson.

  2. jamie

    13. Nov, 2008

    I just noticed this after proof reading my post that there is a fairly obvious “face” to the right of Purity Control. The two huecos would be the eyes, a dark spot for the nose, and below a frown. There are two streaks coming down from the eyes, which could be tears? Due to the success rate of most climbers on this boulder, maybe this is the “face of failure”

  3. hayden

    14. Nov, 2008

    the millenium boulder is fountain sandstone, which more precisely is a pebble conglomerate. it is my understanding that the block was carried by a glacier from the eldorado canyon / flatirons area down to red rocks.

  4. jamie

    14. Nov, 2008

    Sick Hayden! thanks

  5. sock hands

    14. Nov, 2008

    and by “glacier” hayden means “carried by scott blunk”.

    jamie, you either did the sds to cannibal dance and up, or the diagonal line i called “thunderhead” which starts on the sds of cannibal dance and climbs the wall diagonally to the exit of purity control. back when i claimed the FA of the latter, i had checked w/ locals and none told me otherwise. also, unless someone pipes in here, it was unknown if the sds of cannibal dance itself had been done prior to my effort… though, if so, due to a lack of desire only since this is not a cherry line in comparison to purity control.

    finally: note to fools that purity control has been done crossing right hand to the would-be left hand pocket to yield a more static problem of similar difficulty. since i can’t dyno, i had been working this in years past, but could never stick the fierce barn door move. chuck had done so during a session w/ me but slipped off the top, or the top was wet… something like that… memory fades… anyway, i think he did go back to finish and seth allred also did it this way…. so, if you’re a midget and can’t jump, you’ve got an option, but certainly not an easier one, as confirmed by chuckles.

    for what it’s worth…

  6. jamie

    14. Nov, 2008

    In Europe those would be two different problems and I think it would be nice if the same were done here. I am not trying to marginalize the left version, on the contrary, it should be a problem, its just not Purity Control, in my opinion. Maybe Chuck should name his FA. Thanks for the beta Jaeger, I did the sit start to Cannibal Dance.

  7. rm

    14. Nov, 2008

    i’m pretty sure glaciers never existed in colorado below 8000 feet.

  8. jamie

    14. Nov, 2008

    thanks for the geology lesson rylan, maybe you would care to share these thoughts on your own blog, oh wait, no one is allowed to see that, right.

  9. alex manikowski

    17. Nov, 2008

    in regards to the millenium boulder.. i moved to CO a few months ago and have been seeking out new climbing outside boulder since… if you wouldn’t mind hooking up some directions out to these problems, i would def like to try purity control it looks sick! thanks

  10. Andrew Hill

    29. Jan, 2009

    what up, I am also trying to find this boulder. If you can email me the Hiking directions that would be great. thank you

  11. B3

    29. Jan, 2009

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