Southern Colorado

Southern Colorado

Posted on 10. Nov, 2008 by in Front Range


Saturday we marched back down to the Wet Mountains. I wanted to finish cleaning off the arete I found last weekend and maybe give it some effort. I didn’t sleep very well Friday night and I was off to a slow start in the morning. Several people were psyched to try The Nickness, a V10 put up by Austin Geiman a few years back. I half-heartedly chalked some small holds heading right from the start, figured out an interesting sequence and found some motivation. I fell a few times at the end but finally put it together. I think this could be V11 in comparison with The Nickness (which I repeated to the sidepull jug) and a nice variation once you have done the original line.

Afterwords I hiked up the hill and finished cleaning up the arete project. I think this problem is on par with things we saw in Switzerland and I am anxious to start trying it. It looks like several fun and athletic moves lead to a tough deadpoint well off the ground. The finish follows some polished holds to a very tall but easy topout over a marginal landing. Here are some pictures.



I finished the day on a couple of great moderates, Tojo Risen and its counterpart to the left. Both of these are great granite boulder problems. The day felt cut well short as darkness fell around 5pm. I look forward to climbing in Newlin the next few weeks as there seems to be more potential for good hard problems.

5 Responses to “Southern Colorado”

  1. climbingnarc

    10. Nov, 2008

    did you check out those hard problems chuck did in the MVM video?

  2. mervo

    10. Nov, 2008

    Damn, that looks amazing! JE, don’t take anyone to that line until you get the FA. We don’t need any more lines gettin snaked from people that put the time in to find, and clean, amazing lines. Sick find.

  3. JamesO

    11. Nov, 2008

    People like to go out and do good rock climbs. I do not believe people “snake” them.

  4. Peter

    14. Nov, 2008

    Newlin is simply amazing. We climbed a bunch down there last spring, but have yet to go back this fall. So much potential there, just keep hiking…

    Also found some stuff in Apache Canyon (?) that looked the same.

  5. chad beckelhymer

    09. Dec, 2008

    nice finds, i am curious if you have information on the area, climbing on this sharp volcanic rock of the san luis valley is fun, but getting old. i am also curious if you have found any sandstone in the area? if you wouldnt mind letting me know some more info that would be great. the area reminds me a lot like the skyland boulders of crested butte.


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