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Zion

Posted on 06. Oct, 2008 by in News

Skyler Weeks has completed one of the biggest dynos ever done on rock, an 8.5ft jump called Zion in Clear Creek Canyon. The problem is just after the Primo Wall sport climbing area on the same side of the river, before the bridge in a smooth scoop of rock. Skyler spent 76 days to do the first ascent and this is probably one of the hardest jug to jug jumps in the America. The website 8a.nu is suggesting that this maybe V16, because Skyler is the world record holder for jug to jug dynos. I do think this is really impressive, but this has little to do with long and technical power problems like The Story of Two Worlds or pure power problems like Jade and suggesting that this is V16 doesn’t seem appropriate. I have felt that long boulder problems deserve route grades. Maybe specific one move dyno problems like this one should have their own grading system. Perhaps this would be a “D10”, or perhaps Skyler would recommend something else. Interesting sub-topic of bouldering either way, and congratulations to Skyler on a job well done. It would be awesome if Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson or Ty found something that took them as long to do.

6 Responses to “Zion”

  1. campusboy

    06. Oct, 2008

    speaking of jug to jug dyno’s and first ascents, never mind just wait for the video this Thursday!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111

  2. campusmang

    06. Oct, 2008

    Unless climbed, the rule of thumb is you aren’t allowed to have hearsay on the rating. &
    Rating a boulder problem is usually going to be something hard to be right on with. I don’t even think there is a right on with it because of everyone’s widespread differences in body height (about 2 feet- 24 inches). Ratings are something to be humble about, and I think a boulder problem (if rated) should be rated as a boulder problem no matter what the circumstances are. Not obviously enough, we do not have to use ratings and IF YOU ARE READING- GREAT JOB SKYLER.

  3. DaveH

    06. Oct, 2008

    A separate grade for dynos? Um…

  4. campusmang

    06. Oct, 2008

    yeah, just like gill invented his own system, just like verm invented the system, just like…

    aint no thang but a chicken wang

  5. sidepull

    07. Oct, 2008

    I think the old b system would be apropo for dynos or a sliding scale like the french use for Hale Bopp. For example, Wrist Rocket at Joe’s Valley is likely the most often climbed v6 by v3 boulderers with the caveat that they are 6 ft tall. In other words, these guys can climb this one problem in that grade range and so if you factored in height it’s probably more like a v3/4. In the b system it’s a b1.

  6. das bpc

    09. Oct, 2008

    it is unfortunate that he had to dyno, thus invalidating the ascent.

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