The Horsetooth Hang

Posted on 29. Sep, 2008 by in Front Range

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Saturday we went to Ft. Collins to present our slideshow for the Horsetooth Hang. I was looking forward to climbing some of the classic problems at Rotary Park absent from my ticklist. The weather was cool and the sun was hidden in the clouds for a while in the morning. I warmed up and much to my surprise I did the cruz move of the Moon Arete V10. I had sporadically tried this problem ever since I moved to Colorado and it seemed to be impossible. Suddenly the door had opened and I stepped on in, completing it soon afterwards. I think every climber can appreciate the moment when what was once impossible becomes a reality.

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The Moon Arete V10

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FA Ben Moon

I had one more climbing goal for the day and that was the Holy Grail of Horsetooth Bouldering, The Pinch Overhang. This boulder lies on the Mental Block and was established by John Gill in the winter of 1967-8. The first ascent was flashed on top rope and it has gone on to become one of the most well known problems in America. I was very psyched to climb this superb problem. I felt strong and established both feet on the rock before jumping to the lip. I fell a couple of times matching the lip, but on my third try grabbed the sidepull, got my foot up and rocked over, pressing out the dreamy mantle. Often times problems that have alot of historical significance are climbed only for that reason. However, The Pinch Overhang remains an absolute classic. Perfect Dakota Sandstone, unique holds, movement and a commiting and technical mantel. I highly recommend this problem to aspiring and veteran boulderers alike.

There were a bunch of people at the after party and its really nice to be able to share our amazing Switzerland trip with so many people. I want to thank Cameron for all of his hard work and everyone who came out to support us.

2 Responses to “The Horsetooth Hang”

  1. Nick

    29. Sep, 2008

    When is Five Ten going to have the pep rally? I heard the cheerleaders are hot and the hip hop performer is awesome.

  2. campusmang

    30. Sep, 2008

    nice job on the moon arete jamie, AH whom you met at the spot is really close, i am pretty sure he would have called me by now if he sent. but who knows?

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