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Update

Posted on 24. Sep, 2008 by in Updates

I just got an email from Jon Linhart, a boulder climber who has climbed in Chaos Canyon for longer than I have. He informed me that the problem Justin and I have been calling A Sinister Secret was actually put up by Paul Otis, probably around 2002 or so. Jon also told me that Paul did the first ascent to the stand start of what I have been calling the Pterodactyle. Here are his words exactly

“jamie just thought id let u know that many of the problem you and jj have been claiming as FAs are ctually problems FAed by Paul Otis and repeated by both me and Jim Belcer (such as sinister secret really called toolshed left FA Paul otis 2nd Jim Belcer 3rd Jon Linhart, and same as the stand to the problem you are calling Pterodactyl) dont really care much but just thought id let you know. Jon”

These are the kinds of emails I always encourage and appreciate. Even though it seemed evident that we had both done first ascents, new information has arisen and I always feel that accuracy is of the utmost importance. Jon is a reputable source and I certainly appreciate his input. In the past, this kind of information would be lost, or written down as a mistake in a guidebook. Now with the internet, fast and accurate updates can be made daily, if necessary.
Speaking of mistakes in guidebooks, despite all of our efforts both Falcon and Bob Horan are moving forward with their guide book, which will be hitting shelves very soon. Again, I recommend saving your money as this book is filled with errors. I did get a chance to look over it thoroughly and, as I suspected, the misinformation is widespread. Please, if you read this website and have a question about anything pertaining to bouldering in the Front Range I will happily guide you in the right direction, either personally or through someone more knowledgeble then myself.

9 Responses to “Update”

  1. campusmang

    24. Sep, 2008

    i havent seen that book, what i have heard though makes me believe
    the book was made for shits and giggles.
    i recall what he said about chaos, and he made some points that
    give idea’s about what was just made public. bouldering is the real deal, it has to go down in history correctly or it is all wrong.

    i like the mistake about gl info on youtube.com

    search “resistance grand ledge”

    ” 2nd asent ” he doesnt go to the top even.

    it has been done about 5 times
    i dont know how many times someone has pulled the crux with gastons finishing left.

    We mentioned this last time you were in GL
    The newer beta for the resistance is similar to what happened for the mandala
    chris grabbed two gastons
    while dave figured out grab one of them as a side pull and go up right

    pauls variation on The mandala “direct assis” probly uses the gastons chris used and goes up. i dont know

    paul? hows that thing go?

  2. das bpc

    24. Sep, 2008

    in colorado, a bonafide purchaser who records in the public record first, takes ownership irrespective of an unknown prior ownership interest. since we did not know, nor had reason to know, and recorded first in the public record [mvm.com], we take full title free and clear.

    MUAHHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAAA

    well, seriously though, when i met paul in 2002, it was damn obvious that he was scouring the entire park like a truffle hog and he was finding em. i’ll go adjust 8spray.spew, accordingly.

    word.

  3. Blake

    24. Sep, 2008

    I was with Paul, Jon, and Jim when Toolshed was completed. The version that they all did was from the stand start, with left hand in the slot. The low start was not completed then, and was viewed as a project.

  4. jamie

    24. Sep, 2008

    thanks for the update Blake, so am I correct in assuming the Toolshed starts left hand in the slot, and heads straight up? That would mean Justin Jaegers Sinster Secret is an FA. Does that also mean that the problem I climbed, which starts with the low start and heads right was a first ascent as well?

  5. paul

    24. Sep, 2008

    my line goes direct after the mandala’s crux sequence. instead of busting out left at the top you continue on to the peak of the boulder through another tough sequence up high.

  6. Blake

    24. Sep, 2008

    Toolshed is as you described. I remember toolshed right being a line on the right side of the wall, that shared no holds with toolshed, a bit lowball. Anything put up this season that starts on the lowest holds is an FA.

  7. matt

    25. Sep, 2008

    if i’m not mistaken, from what i have read or heard, only Fred Nicole has repeated the mandala as Chris first climbed it (apparently, it’s a harder version than the standard now). Eitherway, apparently a hold in that that double gaston sequence has since broken. Paul, unfortunately kid, you have to go back and reclimb the thing, with the remains of the broken hold, from the sit, with your topout to get the full 14 points.
    the same land i’m makin’ figures at, is the same land where they hang…. JYEAH!!!!!

  8. blderclmbr

    25. Sep, 2008

    Jamie-
    I was wondering what your thoughts were on this upcoming Bob Horan book release and signing for the obviously defective Colorado bouldering guidebook at Neptune Mountaineering? I have always considered Neptune to be the leader in the climbing community and I am pretty shocked that they would be hosting the premier of a book with such apparent flaws. Has anyone talked to Neptune about this? I feel as if their staff is made up of some very knowledgeable and reputable climbers that would be outraged against a publication full of flaws and would not support this new guidebook in any manner.

    Anyways, I still can’t believe this book is actually going to be published and distributed… are there any updates that it might not be?

  9. tip

    20. May, 2009

    Greetings Very good web site. I loved it. Found invaluable information. Just what I was looking for :-)

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