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Stashed Pads

Posted on 10. Sep, 2008 by in News

I know that this issue has been played out in many arenas, however to suggest that anything we do as a user group is “under the radar” is a weak argument, considering an article from the Wed. edition of the Daily Camera. Check out this link

and this one as well
and lets keep Chaos Canyon clean as we head into the fall season.

10 Responses to “Stashed Pads”

  1. MTE

    11. Sep, 2008

  2. Matt

    12. Sep, 2008

    Jamie
    I was reading your comment on Paul’s blog and the need for elite climbers to attempt to be as objective and consistent in their grading. In light of this I was wondering what your motivation for taking down all of your hard sends on 8a was.
    Thanks Matt

  3. jamie

    13. Sep, 2008

    There are several reasons. I feel like 8a is the source of a lot of really petty bickering about grades and that bickering centers more around what was said on 8a and less upon the actual difficulty of the problem. I also think that it encourages up-rating and climbing on problems of lesser quality. I tried to fight this for a long time but to no avail. I got sick of seeing climbers manipulate their scorecards to make themselves look good with little regards to the effect this would have on the community etc etc. There are a lot of reasons and I could go on and on about it but what it really comes down to is this. Last weekend I put up a problem I am really proud of. Its a very obvious line, its tall and commiting and the rock is nearly perfect. It was an amazing experience toping out the FA. I shared this experience with a friend and it was such a neat thing. Being in the mountains with a like minded individual, trying as hard as I could on a beautiful piece of rock. I think 8A tends to be about accomplishment more and experience less. I personally would like to put the emphasis of my climbing on experience more. Running home to update my scorecard doesn’t seem to have much positive effect. I left the easier problems on there as a database but I haven’t updated any more of them. On a final note, the climbers I look up to the most don’t have scorecards: Ben Moon, Malcolm Smith, Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, Tony Lamiche, John Gaskins etc etc. I would be happy to talk more about this if you are interested.

  4. slabdyno

    13. Sep, 2008

    you know, you don’t have to run home to update your scorecard, you can do it via your phone now. call it 8a.numberchase innovation. i’m just sayin…

  5. mervo

    13. Sep, 2008

    Interesting read Jemerson. I hadn’t read Paul’s blog until reading Matt’s post, and found it a most compelling argument.

    Although I wholeheartedly agree with you, it’s easy for someone such as yourself to say this having been climbing at such a high level for so long. Unfortunately we see problems get upgraded/downgraded/overgraded on a daily basis, largely bc people want to feel they’ve accomplished something and due to the amount of time they’ve put in. (i blame the gym culture for a lot of this B.S.)

    There are many people that have been echoing these sentiments for quite a while, Bennett, J. Kehl (also no scorecard), etc.

    On another note, I took a young lady climbing the other day for her first time, and had a great time climbing nothing harder than V5. I wish I had more days like this and less days where I’m cursing myself!

  6. campusmang

    14. Sep, 2008

    Yo JE, what happened to that pad that I stuck in the back of your truck in 2003?

  7. JD

    15. Sep, 2008

    This is off-topic for this post, but I know you have had a video or two on MVM, so here goes…
    I love that MVM is now free. I have been able to get into the archives and watch a lot of the great videos they have that I hadn’t been able to watch before. What bothers me about this free move is that it already appears the updates are going to now become fewer and farther between. Since it went free there have only been a couple of updates. Before it was free, it seemed there were updates nearly every day or two, three days at most. I hope I’m wrong about this, but it’s an observation and something that I could see happening. To sum up, I would rather them charge a fee and put out videos every day or two than let it be completely free and hardly ever update the videos. Thoughts, anyone?

  8. campusmang

    16. Sep, 2008

    i wish people were callin me a number chaser
    even if i did hate movement

  9. campusmang

    16. Sep, 2008

    they were tryin to free everything and not make money anymore, that was the purpose.

    money always makes people work more…sometimes less

  10. climbingnarc

    17. Sep, 2008

    it seems the pace of updating has been slowing down for a couple of months now actually

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