Colorado Guide Book II

Posted on 14. Aug, 2008 by in News

In the last few days I have been working with the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition in an attempt to figure out the best way to deal with the new book. As I understand it, the book is printed and Falcon Press is ready to move forward with getting this pile of mis-information out to the public. I very much oppose this because a guidebook of this magnitude and scope should be of the highest standard, and this one is nothing but the lowest. It is time to take action and the best way to do that is to write to Falcon Press. Let them know why you oppose the guidebook. Let them know that you are not interested in such gross misrepresentation. Let them know that you don’t intend to spend your money on this book and that you will tell your friends to do the same. It will take a large effort to make a change but I think its worth it. If you feel strongly about this please write to guides@falcon.com
Also, if you are near an outdoor retail store, gym, REI, Barnes and Noble, whatever, let them know that they shouldn’t buy this book. Feel free to print out my original post on the matter and show them all of the errors that I noted. I know places like Neptune Mountaineering here in Boulder pride themselves on being a great local resource for climbing information and it would be a shame for us, and them, if they were to carry such a book. It is my impression that we only have a few days, and if you could make it into a shop, write an email, or simply get the word out by the end of the week, you would be doing the community a great service, in my opinion.
My hope is that we could really come together and decide our history together, in the most accurate representation possible, or the future will look like this…

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Freak of Nature V14, Freaky Boulder

19 Responses to “Colorado Guide Book II”

  1. entropy

    14. Aug, 2008

    Thanks for the email address, I sent an email tonight and I look forward to getting a form letter from them.

  2. dude

    14. Aug, 2008

    You could report this matter to 8a.nu and other climbing sites. That way you will reach a lot more climbers.

  3. peter

    14. Aug, 2008

    I added the topic to the 8a.nu forum this morning.

  4. Nick

    14. Aug, 2008

    For everyone’s information, that problem you are climbing in the picture is called Dark Waters, V8.

  5. Wrong Nick

    15. Aug, 2008

    Wrong! Its called Black Waters.

  6. peter

    15. Aug, 2008

    Isn’t that the Dali-Seurat link-up at Evans. V7, maybe 8?

  7. lynnatron

    15. Aug, 2008

    Oh, I got my voice into several of their lead editors…who do those @#$%@ think they are?

  8. Grain O. Salt

    15. Aug, 2008

    A Message to the Boulderers at the Center of the Universe:

    Misrepresentation stinks, especially if your very identity is what’s at stake. Since I’m not a “Colorado/RMNP boulderer” maybe this is too easy (and therefore unfair) for me to say, but someone needs to poke a bit at the absurdly high level of righteousness, pretension and fear contained in these two posts (and ensuing threads). I mean, you’d think the sky is falling!

    Yes it’s condescending of me to say, but I promise your community and your history is not what’s at stake. Hell, from the sheer publicity RMNP has received alone, I bet a media-savvy climber in Europe who has never set foot in RMNP could correct the Falcon guide. Besides that though, y’all obviously have a lively oral history of the bouldering there that will outlast an incorrect guide for years and years to come.

    As a side note, it’s interesting to think in this context of boulderers and climbers who climb things and leave no record whatsoever because that’s how they want it. Seriously, it’s interesting. What the heck would they have to say about all this?

    All that said, try to keep in mind just a few of the other problems in the world when you’re hucking your next lap on Freak of Nature, Dark Waters, Dark Freaks or whatever it’s called.

    Zachary L-H.

  9. Ryan

    15. Aug, 2008

    Thanks Jamie I definitely back you on this I don’t want crap out there either

  10. andy

    15. Aug, 2008

    looks like the endurance pitch of Astroman to me…sweet pic

  11. jamie

    15. Aug, 2008

    Zachary, I can see how you can feel the way you do looking at Boulder from the outside. Its hard to imagine the community that is here. There are so many motivated climbers out every weekend. Organizations like the NCCC have taken very active roles and done countless hours of payless work to secure access to the world class areas that we have here. I think people do get scared when it looks like all of that work can be wiped out or at least threatened by this guidebook. I would hope that in all the traveling I have done I do keep in mind other climbers and other areas. However, Boulder is my home and the news I report here is going to have a Colorado slant.

  12. campusmang

    16. Aug, 2008

    Now Now, Okay Je brings up a good point
    Guidebooks are important
    Fix the mistakes as best as possible for safety and historical purposes.
    many famous guidebooks like rock n road by tim toula, are fixed after tips from the masses. I never entered his site though, ill check asap

  13. campusmang

    16. Aug, 2008

    http://www.rocknroad.com… coming soon

  14. entropy

    16. Aug, 2008

    Zachary, I think the biggest issue with this book is the access issue. This book will cause serious problems in that regard to places where access is already very sensitive.

    But I don’t believe Falcon will do anything about that for whatever reasons they would want to cite. However, by pointing out the terrible inaccuracies in this book, perhaps something will actually be done by the publisher. To publish a book with such an absurd amount of errors would be very detrimental because if they put that out it shows the extremely poor quality of materials they are willing to publish which would do some serious damage to their reputation. Would anyone seriously pay $50 for a guide to place they are unfamiliar with knowing how terrible some of their other guides have turned out? I sure as heck wouldn’t.

    So the short of it is…I think the access is the main thing most of us are worried about. And it’s far more likely that Falcon will take action with this book due to numerous (this word seems like such an understatement in this context) errors in this book than they would because of access issues that are not mentioned. I’m sure that will just be put on the shoulders of the responsible boulderer.

  15. dawg

    17. Aug, 2008

    mang that biz has been there 4 yrs n yrs

    90 dollars @ the fair 4 onsighting the dyno undercling jib tr smear, with the tiny natural feature edge, no climbing shoes allowed, on sacred grownd, no lie, the carny said some dude was gonna take him to court over the no rock climbing shoes rule, he talked for ever to my friend. i decided to give it a shot. my sticker read i rocked the wall. 10 bux a pop, $100 to the person who can get to the orange hold. the excitement, the fear of this tr abc (auto belay component) breaking…
    my mind stood ready, i watch a kid in his socks say its too hard,
    I am clipped into the locker. i start climbing. i think ok.. good thing i have a chalk ball in each pocket. my hands are sweating like never before. I get stuck. But its just a simple high foot step, i keep going. I find myself looking up high at the next hold i need to undercling a decent hold, it was smooth into the next piece of plastic, but again i am at another crux, three in a row i thought to myself bishes. i am stuck for longer than before now, i find a good foot smear out right on the naturals. My excitment is pounding, i was not expecting it to be this difficult. I realize a climber had to have set this route, i find this natural edge on the face just right of the off section. I stand up easily with two natural holds to two jib underclings that im pinching with my thumbs in the bolts. i realize i have to dyno to the orange button hold. i think to myself okay this is it now go, so i jumped and nailed the orange button.

  16. campusmang

    17. Aug, 2008

    anyways, Jason Haas wrote a better book, guaranteed, he is from grand ledge so we know he takes his business seriously.

  17. Zachary

    18. Aug, 2008

    Just a quick note: I am an outsider. Still, it’s not so hard for me to imagine the Boulder climbing community. There’s a vibrant climber community where I live; surely there are some positive similarities. But besides that, I also have good friends who live and climb in Boulder. I’ve even been there and I have to say it’s a nice place. If luck will have it, it would be great to climb with you at your home sometime.

    But my point really wasn’t about the value of the Boulder scene and its members feelings, or about the Colorado slant of your blog. My point was just to suggest that it may be valuable for climbers to keep the significance and urgency of their activity in greater perspective.

    By the way, I uniformly commend the sorts of climber efforts that reduce threats to area access through good stewardship. But you’ll have to admit that the greatest apparent concern in both of your posts was the threat of inaccurate problem names and grades, not access, which you only mentioned secondarily.

    Anyway, good luck and good climbing. I look forward to bouldering in RMNP someday! If you ever find yourself around western NC, I’d be glad to show you some worthwhile bouldering.

    Respectfully,

    Zachary Lesch-Huie

  18. jamie

    18. Aug, 2008

    I dont think Falcon would pay much attention to the lack of the guidebook addressing access issues, however they would pay attention to all of the mistakes. That’s why I went so far to point them out. I think that is what will get the book pulled, if anything does.

  19. Eliott

    26. Jan, 2009

    okay so .. are you NOT on the Freaky Boulder in that picture?

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