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Posted on 06. Jul, 2008 by in Updates


Well after taking almost a month off I have started climbing again and it feels really good, although I don’t feel so strong. It’s important to take care of your body and mind and it was time for a break. It feels great to feel healthy and ready to go. Anyways, here are some quick news updates from Colorado:
Ryan Olson has been on a tear recently, climbing European Human Being V12, The Centaur V12 and climbing Nuthing but Sunshine V13 from one move in. (Olson has a great new website that has some great pics from Colorado, Hueco and our trip to Europe.) Anyways, a recent discovery in some new beta have some suggesting that this problem maybe V12! Hard to believe, but either way, I stand by the fact that Dave’s method for the FA, which was the method that I used, is V13.
As well, Jimmy Webb, a friend from Tennessee has made quick ascents of the Gobot, Super Gui, and Dead Racoon all V11 and Max Zolotukhin has climbed Freshly Squeezed V12.
Also, Kornelious Oblietner has made the third ascent of Momento V16. Kornielus, having never climbed a V13 up to that point, suggested the downrate to V15. This brings up an interesting point. Is it possible to skip 3 or 4 grades if the problem fits you really well? It seems like for many that boulder outside on a consistent basis this would be nearly impossible. Or perhaps Momento will follow suit and get downgraded like just about everything else these days.
Finally, here is a video of a classic problem from Switzerland, Ganymede Takeover. Right on the river, awesome rock and perfect moves make this a must do! Enjoy.

7 Responses to “Update”

  1. bob johns

    06. Jul, 2008

    “either way, I stand by the fact that Dave’s method for the FA, which was the method that I used, is V13.”

    relevance? if in fact there is beta that makes it v12, ignoring grades as a spectrum arguments, does it matter that dave and most of the ascentionist since didn’t find the better beta? grade still would need to come down to v12 on your 8a.

  2. jamie

    07. Jul, 2008

    I agree completely. Until more people repeat it, however, it remains at V13.

  3. peter

    07. Jul, 2008

    Details on the beta?

  4. Ryan

    08. Jul, 2008


    Seems like a lot of people are sending really hard right now. That video just makes me want to go to Switzerland even more.

  5. rolson

    08. Jul, 2008

    Peter –

    after the first move, you set a left heel hook and ride it through the next two or three moves, using that small crimp as an imtermediate. It’s not totally new beta. I believe James Litz and most of the people who did the problem last year used this beta, but it isn’t what Dave did.

  6. Nick

    09. Jul, 2008

    Phil did European, Freshly Squeezed, Wildcat, and Stranger in a Strange Land ALL last week. That could be worthy of you blog.

  7. Maxim

    12. Jul, 2008

    haha…nick beat me to it. jyeah phil!

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