Stinkbug

Posted on 21. May, 2008 by in RMNP

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Today after work my friend Vitaly and I drove up to Stinkbug a classic V10 for a nice evening session. It was put up by Tommy Caldwell and was originally named Lonestar. I didn’t find this out for several years and I still refer to it as Stinkbug. I had done this problem in the fall of 2003, and as I recall hadn’t been back since. I was interested in The Power of Ten V13. This problem was put up by Ty Landman last season and adds two moves to a problem I put up the same day I did Stinkbug called Finite Endeavors. The name comes from Fredriech Nieztsche who writes to the effect that we may find infinite pleasure in our finite endeavors, and I felt that was appropriate. I haven’t climbed much at all in the last three weeks and it was great to get out with an old friend. I did the moves on Ty’s problem quickly and would love to go back and finish that one off.

Vitaly climbed well on Stinkbug and it was one of the first times he has climbed outside.

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I also did a variation that starts on Stinkbug and after the first three moves heads left. I thought this was probably in the V10 range and I did it quickly. I also tried a problem called Stinkbug Extra, which starts on The Power of Ten and heads left into Stinkbug. This was a second ascent and I did it on my fourth try. After taking three weeks off, I’m not sure if I can climb a V12 so quickly, so my suggestion is V11.

4 Responses to “Stinkbug”

  1. das bpc

    21. May, 2008

    i’d expect that stinkbug extra should be a tad harder than the power of ten if they share starting moves, but since the finish of stinkbug is a tad harder than the finish of finite endeavors.

    i’m super psyched to get back and do finite from the proper start after my mistaken start ‘ascent’ long ago!

    stinkbug has killed me in the past, so it’s probably high time for that re-match as well.

    nice jorb, jemerson! hope your friend enjoyed his experience.

  2. campusman

    21. May, 2008

    Vitaly, use your pinkies

  3. jamie

    21. May, 2008

    they don’t share any of the same moves.

  4. doug

    22. May, 2008

    Aww yeah the V.V. pulling down hard. Look at those forearms!

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