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Posted on 12. Apr, 2008 by in Fontainebleau

Yesterday, we had a very nice, albeit warm day running around Fontainbleau climbing some nice problems. The evenings here are pleasant and it is a good time to send your project. It has also been raining quite a bit and we have tried to squeeze in as much climbing as we can. We only climbed for about an hour today before the weather sent us packing.

Elephunk 8B

Elephunk 8B

I had heard alot about how difficult the climbing was in Fontainebleau and how I was probably going to get shutdown. There are also alot of notions about how things are graded differently on the Font. scale and how that compares to Hueco. It seems to me that things are surprisingly consistent. The past three days I have climbed a problem 8A or harder, and all of these problems would be graded the same, I feel, if they were in Switzerland, Hueco, or Colorado for that matter. It does seem like there are fewer problems here that are overgraded, and maybe there are more in Hueco or Switzerland.

A fun moderate

In Colorado the emphasis is on crimping and power, and we all see the results when Paul and Daniel climb in steep and powerful areas like Hueco. It will be interesting to see how they fair in Fontainebleau and more specifically on things like The Island, with huge open handed moves and very intense compression climbing. Suspension of Disbelief in Eldorado Canyon is very much a Fontainebleau style problem.

I would also like to mention that we have tried a 7C slab called Les Nombrilistes. It is very obscure but very tall and very beautiful. We mentioned it to Dave the other day and of course he knew the problem.



In fact he had climbed it, in a couple of sessions. I am ever impressed with his commitment to not simply go after the problems he knows he can do easily, but to seemingly have a never ending desire to improve, to climb the most amazing lines and to put up hard problems in all styles. He continues to make significant contributions where ever he goes, from Arkansas to France.

8 Responses to “Fontainebleau”

  1. campusman

    12. Apr, 2008

    On a deep level for recognition thats cool, another person I think that should be recognized is this one dude Michael Rathke, he knows more about training than anyone in the world. Watch out Dave, Daniel, Dai, Diego, Dani, and Jamie, a Michael is in the hizouse! he will not be the next , jordan, tyson, Jackson, myers, or bolton, oh no, so watch the eff out son!!

    Ps, i flashed that v10 u put on the 45 wall at kalamazoo
    oh yes, u remember that one gun from canada who trained exclusively on 45’s and would smoke sharma, yeah u remember his name but i dont feel like droppin it.


  2. david mason

    13. Apr, 2008

    What area is that slab at? Looks amazing!

  3. chetroy

    13. Apr, 2008

    That slab does have some rad color. Glad to see you guys are getting some dry tugging in. Hope the last few days are good for you. Where to next?

  4. tissuetendons

    13. Apr, 2008

    it’s nice to hear a bit about grade consistency amongst global climbing areas from someone who has rolled through them all in such a short period of time. i have always imagined that Font would be similar to climbing in the southeast US – in terms of both grades and style. either way, can’t wait to get out there. great post.

  5. mervo

    13. Apr, 2008

    That slab looks amazing Jamie. I hope the weather allows you, Angie and Olson to wrap up the trip with a couple more sends. Good luck.

  6. jemerson: seems like with all the travel that these font lines get, they’ve settled in properly and perhaps with time and many repeats, colorado will even out and gain this kind of consistancy so folks will finally know what they are signing up for when they step up to a graded line! or, perhaps with friable climbs, this will never become a reality for certain areas? time will tell.

    next: interesting point about dg. we had actually been discussing this recently… that dave not only goes out and sends a project, but also puts laps in on hard stuff, and then goes batshitcrazy on moderates, and then probably walks in circles constantly until he drills a hole through the earth, popping him out at a new climbing location to start the process all over. the wormhole theories in astro physics were actually founded on emperical data gained from observing graham and his terra-porting through neurosis holes. grand canyon was formed by him pacing, as well.

    i know that i and others have given him crap about comments, etc, but the bottom line is that he is certainly a character and has been as much or more of a force in pushing u.s. climbing to where it is today.

    don’t repeat that, though. the fleeting nanosecond of satisfaction may offset the harmonic spin in his newest bore hole, causing earfquakes and such.

  7. climbingnarc

    15. Apr, 2008

    are you autistic or something???

  8. jean pierre

    15. Apr, 2008

    regarding grades, it would be worthwhile to try some benchmarks whilst in font. I’m sure you won’t have missed the opportunity to try the classics like Karma, Atresie, Partage, Surplomb de la Mee, Satan i Helvete, Gecko, la Merveille, C’etait Demain, etc. If you want to compare grades then stick to benchmarks, not soft as sin problems. I’m unsure why you haven’t been up to do the big 4 (or the big 5) as you’re capable and they are outstanding. Big Golden is a real benchmark for 7C+.

    Bonne Grimpe

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