Magic Wood
18 03 2008Today we went back to Magic Wood and, although it was quite cold, we had a great day. Olson, Angie and myself all sent Supernova, an amazing 7C squeezing arete. Ang fought very hard and has been climbing well lately.
The amazing feature of Supernova
Olson was psyched on The Never Ending Story Part II 7C+ and he climbed it quickly.
I then went up the hill to try The New Base Line 8B+. This was much better than expected and I was really psyched. I did all the moves in an hour and am very psyched to return. I have been apprehensive about trying anything really hard for fear of missing out on classic easier things, but with two weeks left in our Swiss leg, I feel like its time to go for it.
Olson and I then had a great session on The Riverbed 8B. I did it in two parts and Ryan did all the moves quickly. This is an amazing problem and probably the first thing I will go back to after our rest day.
As usual, awesome stuff. Hopefully you can put togehter NBL before you leave. Also, hopefully Angie will not make everyone wait for her to return stateside for an update of her climbing.com pro blogsite.
I’m curious to know if you guys have been able to visit the area with Kings of Sonlerto or the infamous cart project. It seems like access to those areas might be a bit sensitive so I wasn’t sure.
jamie, something i want to point out to u about a rest day, while getting the needed 48 hours off the rock for tendon recovery- if you finish climbing at 4:00pm monday u can start climbing at 4:00pm wednesday.
like i have said before,
24 hours rest only gets all the lactic acid out of your muscles and is just muscle recovery.
YOU SHOULD GET NEW SPONSORS ONCE YOU SEND 8B+. I AM FEVERISHLY REFRESHING ANGIE’S CLIMBING.COM PRO BLOGSITE IN ANTICIPATION.
Practice of the wild pic!
Jamie, sounds like you guys are having so much fun! I love Magic Wood. Isn’t Switzerland amazing. I wish I could go back. If Angie feels strong you should tell her to get on Pura Vida. It’s do-able. It kinda has a weird start (it doenst start where you think it would) you start on some crimps that look like foot holds and you do this toe hook thing to start. The rest of it is really really good. Nice crimps good moves. Some moves a little scrunchy which is why I think its good if you are short. I was able to do it in two overlaping sections and I think that if I could have stayed for longer (we only climbed two days there) then I could have gotten it. Angie has done a lot more hard boulders than I have so I think she could definitly do it. It would be the first female ascent of 8B!! Tell her to try it. That would be cool!! Of course I think you should do it too…and Olsen of course! Have fun!
NBL - Now thats what I’m talking about. Get that shiz Jamie.
peace
this is a good position to be in and a good attack posture to assume…. milage….milage….milage…rest POUNCE CRUSH DEVESTATE FEAST… digest on flight home.
also, time’s running out for a video of pinto crushing. please provide…. or are you waiting for MVM PINTO VIDEO??
Sweet stuff! I get more jealous with every post. Good luck on NBL and The Riverbed!
congrats on your ascent of the riverbed, now go and reel NBL in.