Magic Wood

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Today was our first day of climbing in Magic Wood, a beautiful area about an hour from where we are staying. Magic Wood is near Ausserferrera, which is in a German speaking region of Switzerland. The valley is filled with rock, but only a small sector is designated as a recreation zone. Almost everything in the forest was wet but we did find two very nice problems to climb on. First up was the majestic river boulder.

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The rock on this boulder is outstanding, polished granite that somehow retains perfect texture. Every problem on this boulder is a classic, unfortunately all of them were wet save Massive Attack 8A/8A+. There was nothing to really warm up on so I just started trying the easier moves to warm up. I did it fairly quickly and then repeated it for the camera.

Olson and I the hiked up the hill and climbed Piranja 7C+, a very nice wall with perfect edges. There is video of Dave sending this problem in the excellent short Swiss Gneiss, from Dosage 3, which we have been studying on a daily basis.

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Olson sends Piranja 7C+ with wet holds.

Daniel just stopped by for his nightly chat and told us that he did The Dagger 8B+ today for the third ascent. Dave Graham’s sit start, The Story of Two Worlds 8C, remains unrepeated, however I’m sure young Daniel will have a go very soon.

5 Responses to “Magic Wood”

  1. EBP Says:

    Remember to get a pic of practice of the wild please (next time)

  2. jamie Says:

    Ethan, we haven’t gotten a tour yet of Magic Wood and Seth is going to show us around. It is top on my list.

  3. chetroy Says:

    Hey Yea,
    Magic Wood seems so, well, magical. Is climbing allowed in the non-recreational zones? Keep the psych coming.
    peace

  4. zonk Says:

    hi jamie, according to freakclimbing, martin moser has also climbed the dagger.

  5. Max Says:

    i hate you bastards. do you know where i am driving an hour to go climbing tomorrow?!? LINCOLN WOODS!!!!

    crap!

    seriously though…so freaking jealous.

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