Magic Wood

Posted on 12. Mar, 2008 by in Switzerland


Today was our first day of climbing in Magic Wood, a beautiful area about an hour from where we are staying. Magic Wood is near Ausserferrera, which is in a German speaking region of Switzerland. The valley is filled with rock, but only a small sector is designated as a recreation zone. Almost everything in the forest was wet but we did find two very nice problems to climb on. First up was the majestic river boulder.


The rock on this boulder is outstanding, polished granite that somehow retains perfect texture. Every problem on this boulder is a classic, unfortunately all of them were wet save Massive Attack 8A/8A+. There was nothing to really warm up on so I just started trying the easier moves to warm up. I did it fairly quickly and then repeated it for the camera.

Olson and I the hiked up the hill and climbed Piranja 7C+, a very nice wall with perfect edges. There is video of Dave sending this problem in the excellent short Swiss Gneiss, from Dosage 3, which we have been studying on a daily basis.

Olson sends Piranja 7C+ with wet holds.

Daniel just stopped by for his nightly chat and told us that he did The Dagger 8B+ today for the third ascent. Dave Graham’s sit start, The Story of Two Worlds 8C, remains unrepeated, however I’m sure young Daniel will have a go very soon.

5 Responses to “Magic Wood”

  1. EBP

    13. Mar, 2008

    Remember to get a pic of practice of the wild please (next time)

  2. jamie

    13. Mar, 2008

    Ethan, we haven’t gotten a tour yet of Magic Wood and Seth is going to show us around. It is top on my list.

  3. chetroy

    13. Mar, 2008

    Hey Yea,
    Magic Wood seems so, well, magical. Is climbing allowed in the non-recreational zones? Keep the psych coming.

  4. zonk

    13. Mar, 2008

    hi jamie, according to freakclimbing, martin moser has also climbed the dagger.

  5. Max

    14. Mar, 2008

    i hate you bastards. do you know where i am driving an hour to go climbing tomorrow?!? LINCOLN WOODS!!!!


    seriously though…so freaking jealous.

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