Cresciano

Posted on 01. Mar, 2008 by in Switzerland

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After a “rest” day we went out to Cresciano and my mission was to finish off a problem I had tried the other day called Extreme Ironing 8A+. Often the granite here is very demanding of your technique and each hard problem requires a certain level of understanding. Olson and I had a great session the other day on the problem figuring out beta and we came back today ready to send.
I felt sore, but good, warming up. I gave it a few goes and sent it in good form. Olson soon followed suit and it was a great way to start off the day.

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Extreme Ironing

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Cresciano

Ang was psyched on a problem called La Pioche 7B+. She had tried it the other day and after figuring out some new beta did it quickly.

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La Pioche 7B+

The rest of the day Daniel and I tried La Proue 8B, an amazing and beautiful problem and Mithril 8B. It was a bit warm but we had good time on both. Mithril felt very hard for 8B, much harder than similar style problems in places like New England or Hueco. Neither of us did all the moves.

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La Proue 8B

Last night Daniel, Olson and I went up to check out a problem called La Reve de Mario 8A. This was this first 8A put up in Ticino by Fred Nicole. The story I know is that a friend of Fred’s (Mario) had a dream to climb the boulder in two moves, up left hand and then a huge move with the right. Fred put up the problem using a new 4 move sequence, but named it La Reve de Mario (The Dream of Mario) in honor of his friends vision. As far as I know, Fred’s sequence was THE sequence and no one had been able to do the problem using Mario’s dream. Last night, after much flailing, Daniel unlocked the problem using two perfect moves. Well done.

4 Responses to “Cresciano”

  1. Pizzle

    02. Mar, 2008

    Oh man – great story about the dream and the send!

  2. Harry R

    02. Mar, 2008

    Thank you for posting the picture of La Proue. I will now go to sleep and dream of it.

    HR

  3. entropy

    02. Mar, 2008

    It is good reading that guys like you and Daniel can’t always do all the moves on an 8b right away. I came back last night rather frustrated because I spent about an hour working on an 8a and there was one move that I wasn’t even close to getting. I felt a lot better after reading that. So thanks for mentioning that, sometimes failures are as motivating as sends.

  4. Boulder Database

    02. Jan, 2012

    it did it also in the two moves way

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