LRC

19 01 2008

Thursday was a rest day after three days on and Friday we made our way back to LRC. The last couple of days there I had been trying to send this extension to Biggie Shorty, a V10 I had done last week. The extension, which was put up by Matt Bosley, adds quite a bit of difficulty to the original, which I had climbed in a couple of tries. It was much warmer today but conditions were still good. The sun was out and it may have hit 50. Local strongmen Jimmy Webb and Matt Segal were also there trying the problem with me.

Jimmy Webb

The crux revolves around a hard match, followed by a huge lock off to a slopey sidepull. From there, the climber still has to burl through the hard, crimpy move of Biggy Shorty. We each had our own different beta, and were all close to getting the send. I was gave myself no more than 5 tries from the start, to minimize skin loss, and on the fourth burn I fired it. There was much talk about the grade, and all I can do is give my opinion. I would say it is in the low end V12 range. For me, it was similar in style and difficulty to Wildcat in Upper Chaos. Matt and Jimmy both couldn’t be much closer and I am sure they will send in the next few days. Angela finished up a couple of things as well, I Think I Can V7/9 and The Cinderalla-Cleopatra Travere V9. She also climbed well on some harder things.

Bedwetters

I am resting tomorrow and Ang. is climbing. Sunday the weather looks great and I will either head back to Dayton to finish off Vapor Lock (the best hard problem out of the massive roof) or head out to try another hard problem in Alabama.

The gorgeous rock of the South